RC10T - BNIB Build

[Lavigna]

Build is basically complete. Still some minor details to be ironed out. I wanted to build it as close to the instruction manual photos as I could. This is impossible as different equipment is shown in defferent sections of the manual. I will likely never find the same battery pack used in the manual, but I have a nice set of Reedy cells on the way, which should look better. I got a new Box Art painted body, and added original AE decals. The number 10 on the number plate I had custom made with a red background, to match the box art. I removed the tops of the body posts, as I don't want to drill holes in the body, but wanted it to sit at the proper level.

**********

Hi,

I recently scored a BNIB RC10T off ebay. I probably paid way too much, but I have been wanting one for so long. It is a mid 7001, with a B stamp offset chassis, early box label.

I recently rebuilt my original RC10T Sport that I bought as a kid. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=38723 It was a fun project, and I am so happy to have it completed. I love looking at it in it's original box art paint. I did not keep things vintage on my rebuild, as I added modern electronics, as well as some vintage updates such as Tacnacraft ties and Titanium dog bones. Also, the body on my rebuild was a reproduction, and the wheels and tires are not vintage.

With this new RC10T, because it is fresh out of the box, I plan on keeping everything vintage. It will be a shelf queen, but I want to add all the vintage electronics that a runner would have. Everything will be vintage or original. I feels amazing to see the same bags I opened back in 1992 again, and it brings back a lot of memories from a very fun part of my life. I will be taking my time on the build, and doing my best to get everything just right.

Any suggestions are always welcome. I hope you enjoy.

[RossA81]

Very cool purchase.

I am glad to hear you are going to build it. Is your other 10T a runner; or are you adding a 2nd shelfer?

Enjoy!
Ross

[Lavigna]

Yes, my other RC10T is a runner. It does not get run much, and when it does it is mostly in the driveway.

I wanted to show some pictures of the chassis from my new 10T. It is pretty scratched up. From what I can tell, these are all production scratches, as this was perhaps an earlier made chassis. I wanted to show them and ask if this is normal for a mid 7001? The truck is BNIB, but I was surprised by the condition of the chassis. All the scratches are under the black anodizing. Any input on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Lavigna]

I am about to begin the build. I am so excited. It takes me back to when I was 12 years old. I remember opening the box, and holding the black aluminum chassis in my hands, and thinking it was the coolest thing. I was overwhelmed by all the small bags filled with parts. Today, I just wish the build would take longer, and am trying to savor ever step of it.

The instructions that used to come with RC cars were amazing. Today, everything is a simple CAD illustration and part numbers. There is hardly any text to guide you. I love how the old instructions really speak to you, tell you not to rush, and give you little tips along the way.

Here we go!

[vintageguy]

Congrats on the new kit. I was going to bid on it (assuming this one was the one ob eBay early last week).
However, the price went out of my comfort zone plus I have other projects that need financial attention.

Some of us have different views on the white plastics even though we all like them.
Due to age even the NOS plastics get the "yellowed" look. Personally, I would use the
Hydrogen peroxide trick and brighten up the plastics before I build it (that is just me though).

[Lavigna]

Congrats on the new kit. I was going to bid on it (assuming this one was the one ob eBay early last week).
However, the price went out of my comfort zone plus I have other projects that need financial attention.

Some of us have different views on the white plastics even though we all like them.
Due to age even the NOS plastics get the "yellowed" look. Personally, I would use the
Hydrogen peroxide trick and brighten up the plastics before I build it (that is just me though).

Thanks. I am not too concerned with the white plastics, and their yellowing. I accept that as something that is uncontrollable. I have gone back and forth about soaking them in peroxide to whiten them. I did that on my original 10T, and had good results. However, they do just yellow again, so it is always only a temporary cure.

My question/concern was regarding the chassis. I know the marks are from production, but I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this before?

[slotcarrod]

The chassis is normal. Many were nasty looking with factory marks all over them, yet some were perfect. So no consistency at all!

Keep the plastic original imho!

[vintageguy]

Markings on the chassis (light marks) are from the anodizing process. All bare aluminum that will be anodized has to be run through a series of preparation. One of those being run through an etching tank. If the part is not throughly cleaned after being etched the color will not take as well. I have seen this many times with production runs. A friend of mine owns an anodizing company so I just have him strip my chassis's and run them in Type III black hard ano. Looks better than factory and doesn't have the "discolored" areas.

Since you are in Cali you can send your chassis to Alumin-Art plating / www.anopros.com
They will do one part or a hundred. Their work is great and prices are very reasonable.

Of course, that's if you want to do it.

The fix I have found for plastics not coming back to being yellow is a product called SC1. It is made Maxima. It's a plastic polish used in the world of moto. After pulling the parts from peroxide and completely drying them I spray them with SC1 (throughly) and let sit overnight. I soak them with SC1 again the next day and let them sit for another 7-8hrs. The SC1 slowly penetrates into the plastics kepping the brightness alive.

[Lavigna]

Markings on the chassis (light marks) are from the anodizing process. All bare aluminum that will be anodized has to be run through a series of preparation. One of those being run through an etching tank. If the part is not throughly cleaned after being etched the color will not take as well. I have seen this many times with production runs. A friend of mine owns an anodizing company so I just have him strip my chassis's and run them in Type III black hard ano. Looks better than factory and doesn't have the "discolored" areas.

Since you are in Cali you can send your chassis to Alumin-Art plating / http://www.anopros.com
They will do one part or a hundred. Their work is great and prices are very reasonable.

Of course, that's if you want to do it.

The fix I have found for plastics not coming back to being yellow is a product called SC1. It is made Maxima. It's a plastic polish used in the world of moto. After pulling the parts from peroxide and completely drying them I spray them with SC1 (throughly) and let sit overnight. I soak them with SC1 again the next day and let them sit for another 7-8hrs. The SC1 slowly penetrates into the plastics kepping the brightness alive.

Great Info! Thanks so much!

As I start to open some of the packages, these plastics are quite yellow. I think I may actually whiten them, and will try your Maxima product. It will make for a finished truck that looks fresh from 1992. Thanks again for the info and help.

[vintageguy]

No problem at all. You can pick up a can of SC1 at any motorcycle shop that carries Maxima products. If you can't find it for some odd reason let me know and I'll send you a can of it. I use it on all of my cars after cleaning them. Keeps them looking new.

[vintageguy]

Here is the can to look for. It says "clear coat" but it is not an actual clear coat. It just conditions plastic and gives it a nice clean appearance. Most of the time it will hide the lighter areas on the 10T and original GT chassis's. I just put some on an old GT chassis to show the difference. After you wipe it off of anodized parts it keeps the shine with a dry surface.

[foots]

Maxima makes a really good product. I think it's or was owned by the Lechien family.

[vintageguy]

Maxima makes a really good product. I think it's or was owned by the Lechien family.

Yes, it was started by Ron Sr and it's still a family business. Ron Jr is a crazy guy (in a nice way) and runs the company now.

[Lavigna]

Here is the can to look for. It says "clear coat" but it is not an actual clear coat. It just conditions plastic and gives it a nice clean appearance. Most of the time it will hide the lighter areas on the 10T and original GT chassis's. I just put some on an old GT chassis to show the difference. After you wipe it off of anodized parts it keeps the shine with a dry surface.

Awesome! Thanks so much.

I have begun soaking the white parts in peroxide.

[vintageguy]

Here is the can to look for. It says "clear coat" but it is not an actual clear coat. It just conditions plastic and gives it a nice clean appearance. Most of the time it will hide the lighter areas on the 10T and original GT chassis's. I just put some on an old GT chassis to show the difference. After you wipe it off of anodized parts it keeps the shine with a dry surface.

Awesome! Thanks so much.

I have begun soaking the white parts in peroxide.

No problem. Happy to help.