custom made rc10 parts

[scr8p]

Yeah the problem is the 2.25 was a compromise fitting the biggest diff gear possible while still using the 6 gear motor plate. They should've just made a proper motor plate to begin with.. Maybe you could do a 2.4 or 2.6 diff gear & idler without the idler in line with the diff and top shaft but you'd need to have the bottom screw holes elsewhere and redrill the motor plate.

i'm gonna send a 2.25 case along with the other parts i'm sending. he can look at it and see if he can come up with anything. i know my whole goal would be to keep the original mounting points at the chassis, and the topshaft needs to stay where it's at. i really think that the 2 rear case screws (top and bottom) can be retained in their original position. the two in front could be moved up and forward quite a bit. then all that would need to be done would be drilling and tapping 2 new holes in the 2.25 motor plate. the bottom edge of the plate would probably need to be massaged a bit so the outdrive won't rub it, since the diff will be higher up in the case.

[scr8p]

What about C/F chassis that are cut to shape but not drilled? Like you said, the holes are where most of the cost comes from. Most of us have old chassis that could be used as templates and it would also allow us to choose the parts we wanted to use. ie: 6 gear/stealth, battery position etc.

i'd have to ask him about that. but, i wouldn't think he'd go for it. he's in the business of making rc parts, not selling cf sheet. which is mainly what that would be.

during our conversation on the chassis topic, when he threw out the approximate price of $150 to me, that was for a custom chassis cut and drilled to my specs for the way i want to build it. he said if he got a sheet with the kickup molded in, he could probably make 15-16 chassis' out of it. if you wanted one, he could make it to your exact specs. i don't think he'd be looking to make production runs of old style chassis' because he isn't gonna want to sit on them if they don't sell.

i'm gonna try calling him tomorrow to talk to him about it a little more in depth. he's also a member here, so maybe i'll just direct him to this thread. he can chime in on some of the ideas.

[aeiou]

I like the idea of a transmission case that would use B4 internals. As far as a long-term outlook for runners and vintage racing, it makes a lot of sense. We’ve figured out how to get B4 wheels and tires to work and this seems like the next logical step. It’s a fact that Associated is discontinuing RC10 parts at a rapid pace these days. It won’t be too far down the road before we’ll be scrounging for Stealth innards to keep our runners and racers going.

In terms of interference with existing mounting points, the case could also be designed similar to the MIP change box conversion, where a couple of the screws go in from the opposite side of the plate. There are other possible solutions as well such as mounting the inner case half separately or using a spacer system which serves as an adapter of sorts.

However, to use the B4 diff setup above the chassis would definitely require slight modification to the motor plate to allow the out drive to clear. While that would be an easy mod, I have to wonder what the potential effect will be on the rest of the drive train and performance due to the raised location of the out drives. I know some may gasp at the idea, but I’d be interested in a design that lowers the diff to the correct location. While I probably won’t be cutting into a mint original chassis to install one of these for a shelf display, I wouldn’t have a problem modifying a runner/racer chassis to get a setup that performs well and uses new parts.

Of course, at some point, we may have to create an “All Dynotech” class for the vintage races – but that’s discussion for another thread…

[scr8p]

I wouldn’t have a problem modifying a runner/racer chassis to get a setup that performs well and uses new parts.

exactly. the whole reason for these parts to be made is really for the runner/racer. your not going to "restore" a buggy with them. they're not gonna look the same, but will work the way the originals were designed to in function and mounting points. that's my goal anyway.

i really think the 2.40 is gonna be the biggest diff gear that would be able to be used. the 2.60 will be too large and interfere with the bulkhead. the entire trans would end up having to be set back further back on the chassis. that wouldn't be as much of an issue with a graphite chassis, but it would give you problems with a tub application.

[aeiou]

The bulkhead might need to be notched (or a custom bulkhead used ) for either diff gear as the current gear is already mighty close to the case edge/bulkhead. I'm sure Chad's trusty caliper will answer that one. Either way, I'd be OK whittling the bulkhead a bit if I had to.

I have to imagine that B2/B3/T3 2.40 gear is soon to be on the chopping block as well. Pretty sure Custom Works gets those parts from AE too.

[scr8p]

I have to imagine that B2/B3/T3 2.40 gear is soon to be on the chopping block as well. Pretty sure Custom Works gets those parts from AE too.

a quick call to custom works and i could find some stuff out.

i would have to imagine that if CW continues to buy the asc parts they use in their oval kits, associated would keep producing them. could be wrong. but, almost all of the terminator based oval cars use the 2.40 trans, so it's not as if custom works is the only one in need of them. so, demand for the parts is high. it'd be dumb for associated to pull the plug on those parts. unless the oval companies design cars around the 2.60 (which is too low for electric oval racing), the 2.40 stuff is gonna continue to sell.

awhile back, i was gonna put a 2.40 trans in an old rc10. the only real issue was the lower front case screw. it would've either needed to be removed, or the bulkhead would've needed to be notched out for clearance. but even notching the bulkhead, i don't remember if it would've fit in between the 2 8-32 bulkhead mounting screws.

[Bugle]

2.4 is still in use on the Thunder Tiger AT10, so it's probably safe until the B5 comes out.

I chucked a 2.6 gear and the bigger idler up against a stealth box and it looks like the diff will fit in the same space as the 2.25 diff, they have the 2.25 diff sitting pretty close to the bulkhead with a fair bit of space between that and the motor.

The height of the diff shouldn't be an issue, in the B4 the rear chassis plate rises up about the thickness of the alloy in a tub at the gearbox so it'll be at the same height in an unmodified tub.

[scr8p]

not that it would matter with a 2.60 diff gear, being as though you wouldn't need to run such a huge spur, but with the diff set higher in the trans case, you wouldn't be able to run as big of spur.

another other issue i'd see with the outdrives sitting higher up off the chassis would be the dogbones/cvd's. even a stock rc10, with plenty of down travel in the suspension, the bones are close to coming out of the outdrive. that would make it worse. you'd definately need to add more limiters to the shocks.

[Bugle]

Yeah probably be best off with the worlds arm & B4 wheels conversion to reduce the driveshaft angles.
The X6 is similar with the idler off to the side and the spur coming close to the out drive, you can't run a spur bigger than 81t on those and noone seems to mind. http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewx6/page03.html

[wyldbill]

i really wish i could find a pic of the G.F.R.P. tranny case i dont think dustin had to do much to get the 2.6 diff in the 2.4 location. but like jay is saying stuffing a 2.6 in a 2.25 case is a whole nother story. after seeing the pic bugle posted with that big ass gear in there you may have to use a b3 motor plate since the case screws will need to be relocated.

[Bugle]

Nah you could use the standard motor plate modified. The B3 plate would require the same mods as the stealth one aswell as having to sort out where it attaches to the chassis at the back so it'd be harder. I think the idea is to use the standard motor plate and keep the top shaft low so that a protech body will still be able to fit on.