First time with a brushless car...

[PTModIT]

I'm running a CC 5700 Pro Max with a 3s lipo.I set the stealth exactly how it says in this.http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3721.It might be hard to read.There should be another on here that is more clear.I did not lube the inside of the stealth.It run straight with no spin outs on take off.The only lub inside the stealth came from our natural body oils. LOL.

[slapshot1979]

I was thinking more about it and Id bet the oil/combo your running is effecting the diff itself . I use ONLY Associated black and clear diff grease in EVERYTHING. it is the best and the most consistant. I have tried other makes and its not the same. I wouldnt give up on your stock diff yet....
Goodluck

[Dave145]

ok that's what i needed to know for the evader diff. As for donuts? I get a donut if I even touch the steering wheel on this new system once I'm up to top speed. As for lube and my diff, I sanded my diff rings down with 2200 grit sandpaper to make them smooth, put a light coating of Marvel lubricating oil on them to make them smoother, put some Marvel on all the balls to make them smoother, and then lubed the entire diff with a half tube of black grease (okay maybe not quite a half I was never good with fractions and estimating ). Anywho @PTModIT, you say you run no lubes in the diff? Just the rings and the balls with no lube? Sounds like that would smoke the diff a little faster, but that's how I always ran my graphite rc10 with the same trans and a yokomo 14t motor (that car kicked a**, especially when I beat a brushless slash with it). I'll have to get a new diff gear for my stealth, but in the meantime I have a 6 gear with the steel idlers in it and I have my slash tranny. Votes? Opinions? Which should I try first? I'm thinking I'll tray the Slash tranny first especially now that the truck is wrecked. (stupid cement pole )

[Bimdapogs]

ok that's what i needed to know for the evader diff. As for donuts? I get a donut if I even touch the steering wheel on this new system once I'm up to top speed. As for lube and my diff, I sanded my diff rings down with 2200 grit sandpaper to make them smooth, put a light coating of Marvel lubricating oil on them to make them smoother, put some Marvel on all the balls to make them smoother, and then lubed the entire diff with a half tube of black grease (okay maybe not quite a half I was never good with fractions and estimating ). Anywho @PTModIT, you say you run no lubes in the diff? Just the rings and the balls with no lube? Sounds like that would smoke the diff a little faster, but that's how I always ran my graphite rc10 with the same trans and a yokomo 14t motor (that car kicked a**, especially when I beat a brushless slash with it). I'll have to get a new diff gear for my stealth, but in the meantime I have a 6 gear with the steel idlers in it and I have my slash tranny. Votes? Opinions? Which should I try first? I'm thinking I'll tray the Slash tranny first especially now that the truck is wrecked. (stupid cement pole )

That sounds wrong.. What's Marvel lubricating oil?

Use Stealth Diff grease on the diff balls. Not too much!
Then Black grease on the thrust balls. You wouldn't need much for that as well.

[Dave145]

okay I get it. The Marvel oil is some lightweight machine oil I just use for a light coating on metal parts before packing them with actual grease. So no one knows where I could find a metal diff gear? I've been all over the internet but still found nothing... I might be able to get one made from the machine shop here by my house but I'm not sure of the cost. If I do get one, would anybody else be interested in one as well so I can look into possible bulk pricing?

[Bimdapogs]

That's probably why your diff is slipping leading to melting. The Stealth grease was made so the balls won't slip on the rings. Don't use anything else.

Plastic diff gears are fine. I'd concentrate more on properly building the diff.

[PTModIT]

No lube in the stealth for the teeth on the gears. You use ONLY AE#6636 stealth silicone grease for the diff balls and ONLY the black grease(not sure the number) for the thrust bearing.It's all in that text I posted. Use nothing else but what AE recommends.

[PTModIT]

You don't need the metal gears.Like bimdapogs says, concentrate on building the stealth they way Cliff lett says.I did and know problems. Just use the right grease.

[Dave145]

Well that makes sense... that must be why my rc10 graphite ran so much smoother for so much longer without a rebuild.

[Dave145]

Some special news though, I did get my 2wd Slash transmission bolted on to my goldpan using the original 6 gear holes and some aluminum.

[Dave145]

now to add the front spindles and the front wheels for that "custom mini short course truck" look.

[JK Racing]

Or just use Bandit rear wheels to return it back to "buggy" size.

[Dave145]

I put it back to buggy size this afternoon for a short run on some medium length grass and some dirt and the car was really for a lack of better words a turd. No acceleration, no speed, running a 19/90 gear ratio as the castle manual suggests. The clutch never fully let the gear train engage and was alwys slipping even at half throttle,and the diff was even worse. The diff had a very large amount of lag in performance. Even if the clutch would stop slipping enough to let the gear train run free, the diff still seemed lazy and lagged when putting power to the left wheel causing rhe car to drive in circles. I'm not sure what that was all about, but I'm either attributing it to a faulty diff (go figure), the small 1.9" rear tires, or the fact that my supposed buggy is 4.25 pounds when fully loaded. Guess I'll try a 6 gear tranny while i repair the stealth....

[slapshot1979]

Slash' dont have a ball diff, they have gear diff which sucks. thats why real race cars like the rc10 stealth tranny dont use them.

[Dave145]

Well that would explain it. I've always favored the gear diff for durability, but this test today kind of makes me lean towards the ball diff.