My first RC10 Gold Tub!

[TenzoR]

There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank

I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.

I'm really debating, about how I should go about restoring the gold tub. I'm never going to run it. It will be display along with that yellow body, gold dampers and vintage wheels/tires. Should I bother with a set of new bearings? Most of these bearings are shot and should really be replaced. A lot of screws and nuts are rusted and worn out. The turnbuckles are in horrible shape for front and rear. I'm tempted to keep them as is, since it goes well with the age of the RC10 but the other side of me wanted to make them as nice as possible ...

[littleVETTE]

Please preserve those tires, or offer them to me, I will gladly exchange them for a few sets of NIB modern tires.

easy cowboy. breathe.

[jsrracing]

never show a man who has almost everything rc10 a pic of almost .

easy cowboy. breathe( now thats funny )


(they should be in a museum) ahh but we need a museum.

[SteveK]

There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank

I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.

The black molded World's Car bellcranks had tiny plastic shims that would sit between the bottom bearing and the chassis. I lost one of these early on, so I just use the conical spring washers from the 1/4" axles, with the narrower end facing up. Unless I was using them on a graphite chassis, in which case I screwed the post to the chassis with a longer screw and used a nut to hold the bellcrank down onto that.

[korky]

Did you end up installing the robinson toe in? I also have one but can't find the chassis I had it installed on. I hate to drill holes in a chassis.

[Ruffy]

There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank

I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.

I'm really debating, about how I should go about restoring the gold tub. I'm never going to run it. It will be display along with that yellow body, gold dampers and vintage wheels/tires. Should I bother with a set of new bearings? Most of these bearings are shot and should really be replaced. A lot of screws and nuts are rusted and worn out. The turnbuckles are in horrible shape for front and rear. I'm tempted to keep them as is, since it goes well with the age of the RC10 but the other side of me wanted to make them as nice as possible ...

Since your intent is to restore it for display purposes only, don't worry about bearings. Leave the bushings in it, since it won't be spinning the parts much at all. Just buy what you need slowly, or buy and old beat up car and it might have the bearings, bushings and screws you need.
-Ruffy

[tamiyadan]

.

[flipwils11]

man that body is cool, please sell me it

The 80's body comment cracked me up. So funny. That body would look perfect on the wall of that art gallery in the 1st Beverly Hills Cop movie.

[craigc8791]

where did you get those turnbuckles???

[scr8p]

they're FT associated turnbuckles. you can get them pretty much anywhere.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0091P?&P=SM&C=CMD&V=ASC

[craigc8791]

yeah but do you buy the b3 set or just buy them seperately. if so what are the factory team part numbers

[scr8p]

you have to buy the lengths you need. they don't have a FT kit for the old cars.

[Eau Rouge]

Also consider that you can use different length turnbuckles in different locations with different length ball cups. i.e., short Lunsford blacks or stock Associated cups will use different length rods than a long Losi ball cup will. You can mix and match to get correct operating lengths if you need to. I'm using Losi natural HD ball cups on one of my "old is new" RC10s and they use slightly shorter rods than listed above.