YZ10 Works Projects

[flustorm99]

Cool blind as a bat a usual...and yep i am going to
Snap up some of the parts for my runners too...got my 93' going last week and its sweet..i did waste alot of time making some of my own parts...i wish i had patience in hind sight! Anyway great stuff!

On a side note, what about the 93 top deck? I see they have one on thier site but its very different to the original..stringer no doubt...i was wondering if u had any plans to get that done as well?

[stickboy007]

I don't have any plans to do a full carbon '93 Works. All of the carbon '93 parts are for my '93 runner that I'm working on. I thought about getting the original upper deck in carbon (which they have here: http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/yokomo/yz10works93.html), but the other upper deck that they have there braces the front shock tower (kind of like the Jammin' deck on the 870c), and so I figured that would be better for a runner.

[hondaman]

That is awesome.. how much is the shipping for your order? Just want to get a feel for the shipping price..

Shawn

[flustorm99]

True about fiberlytes upper deck for the 93....

[stickboy007]

Shawn, the shipping for this order was 16 GBP based on projected weight. This included all of the repro parts you see here, plus my original parts in the same package.

[hondaman]

Awesome thanks.. Looks like I may be buying a bunch of stuff soon.. Woohoo..

Shawn

[stickboy007]

Spent some time today working on the '91 Works with the new Fibre-Lyte parts...

The motor mount is a GPM aluminum unit that came from a parts haul (see one of the previous pages). I had to shave a small amount of material from the rear bulkhead cap to ensure clearance between the cap and motor mount (not shown here, but the little lip on the front of the bulkhead cap had to be shaved over a bit). The battery braces are repro units made of fiberglass from gomachv, and I think the color goes nice with the carbon fiber chassis. I added a NIP RCPS steering brace, and the arms are delrin units from Dynotech. Had to do some minor dremel action on the arms, but they are nice and smooth now. I want to order some new socket head screws, since a few of the ones on here are dirty and should be replaced for a build like this (in there for now as placeholders).

More coming soon

[hondaman]

That looks great.. The carbon parts look really good.. what did you need to do to the arms?? I was interested in a set for a later project myself and I am curious... they do look good and beefy..

Shawn

[stickboy007]

Here is a list of what you need to do to the arms:

1.) Bore out the kingpin holes (inside and outside holes) a little bit. They are pretty tight for the 3mm kingpins as-is. What I did was take a drill bit that is smaller than the hole and circulate it around the hole with my Dremel at moderate speed, iteratively, until I could freely move the kingpings in and out.

2.) The inside of the rear arm will have to be thinned down a bit. The inside of the arm is too wide for the stock kingpin to fit all the way through. I took a sanding bit and used my Dremel to shave a few mm off of the outside portion of the arm.

3.) The inside part of the inside of the rear arm will also have to shaved a bit, but only slightly, to allow for more free movement of the arm along the bulkhead.

4.) The inside edges of both the front and rear arms will have to be rounded off to prevent binding against the rear bulkhead during travel.

5.) see #2 and repeat for the front arms, but to a lesser extent, for both the inner and outer portions of the arm.

This may or may not be descriptive enough for you, but once you get the arms and test fit them, you'll get a better sense of what I'm talking about here. The Dynotech arms are really great, but no matter what you get them for (I've done this a few times on some RC10 projects as well), you cannot expect them to fit perfectly straight from the supplier. You'll have to do some iterative dremeling until the arms rotate smoothly on the bulkheads, the hubs rotate smoothly on the arms, all of the kingpins fit smoothly, etc. Just be careful not to go overkill on removing material, because once you remove it, you can't get it back.

[hondaman]

Well that didn't sound too bad and thanks.. that info helps me out.. I was thinking it was more involved.. heck I did more on my rc10 re re or make it perfect for me.. when I finish my Works 93 this is the next yokomo project after one more.. have 3 yokomo projects first then this.. bummed I got out bid on an 870c parts car today.. would allow me to finish one more.. oh well.. The search continues.. In the mean time, I have enough to build one right now.. thanks for the motivation to get back on it.. looking forward to the rest of this one..

Shawn

[isobarik]

lovley looking arms there would love to have those....

mvh Isobarik

[stickboy007]

I always manage to pick up at least one or two new projects for every project I start. I have one or two 870c runner projects that I want to sell to help subsidize all of this other stuff. It's getting expensive

I managed to install the front hubs and shocks all around before going to bed last night. Will post pictures later. The shocks are brand new, as are the rear springs; however, the front springs rusted out while in the package/storage for all those years. So I had to resort to using the front springs that came with this chassis, which do not have the polished look of new parts. Maybe I can fix that with some polish...?

One thing that's kind of interesting is the way the steering knuckles are mounted on the '91. The original build did not use kingpins to mount the knuckle to the C-hub, but instead 3x10 screws with a washer and a metal tube on each. There is some play between the knuckle and the C-hub, which I will have to shim out.

Also noteworthy is that the Dynotech arms do not accept Suzuki alloy C-hubs without modification. Those C-hubs come in either 5 deg or 8 deg castor, which is a lower angle than stock. This pushes the C-hub sidewall against the opening in the arm where it mounts, and does not allow for full droop. Not a problem...I'll save those alloy hubs for another chassis.

At this point, the '91 Works is almost done. I just have to get a few new screws to replace some of the semi-rusted placeholders in there now, then some new white ball cups for the steering turnbuckles (I could use black, which I have on hand), then wheels/tires/wing/body/tray. I have some new pink wheels I could put on this, but I'm thinking white rims might actually look better here. Maybe I'll put white on one side and pink on the other and take pictures to see which looks better.

[hondaman]

Hmm.. Maybe if you have one you want to let go of that isn't too expensive we can work out a deal later on.. RC funds are low right now.. I have some Andy's parts (white arms, hub carriers) I am saving to use..

Shawn

[stickboy007]

My initial intent with those 870c runners is to try to get more people at my local track into vintage 4wd buggy. If I don't get enough interest there, then I'll probably put it on eBay and give rc10talk members a special discount (I have to mark it up on eBay to cover the 10% cut that they take).

Here are some pictures with most of the front end "done" and the shocks/springs added. The molded wing already had holes cut for a '93 or '94 YZ10, so I had to improvise here (the hole spacing on the '91 and '92 is shorter). I took an RC10 wing wire and cut the long ends, then bent them out at an angle so they can slot through the wing buttons. Then I bent them up a bit to give the wing some attack angle. The blue wing buttons are Associated # 6193B.

I might put some used ball cups on the steering turnbuckles and mount them as a placeholder until the NIP units arrive in the mail. I eyeballed what the pink rims and white rims would look like against this chassis, and the white rims by far looked better with these colors. I'll save the pink rims for the '92 Works.

[hondaman]

Drooooool... That looks great... The carbon bits look very slick.. I like it!!

Keep me in mind on the 870C later..

Shawn