RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Every manufacturer is going to push the tolerance limits on these bodies because the width scale is so far off. You are going to flip and screw up the bodies so bad anyways, what is a little paint rubbing in the wheel well? I stayed away from the RTR DR10 for multiple reasons, and one being the &quo...

Basher67 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 2:01 pm what esc/motor are you going to start with?

Right now I have a Hobbywing EZRun 3660 4000kv with XR10 Pro 160a. Just a starter kit.

All great tips and advice. I thank you guys! I'll start off with my already-owned 5000mah cells, and work up from there. Thanks again!

I am getting around to ordering final components for my DR10 kit, and I am on batteries now. Is this modern age of 6000mah+ lipos, it seems like a lot of people are running this type of 2S in their no prep cars. But when I think of 1:1 drag cars, those guys run fuel cells big enough to get them to t...

she will....then u know u will be distracted because of that car.....so when she notices she will say "is something wrong?" or something along those lines....you will say "nothing is wrong" then there might be tude!...only because u are thinking about your new car and not them.....

Here are a few parts I have designed and printed for my 10L over the past few weeks. They are made of ABS, which is plenty fine for all of the pieces save the shock mount. If I can get a stock piece that suits my needs, then I will get one, but I tend to want to experiment and do things my own way, ...

Really hope the wife doesn't want to hang out tonight.....................

Seeing as this truck will probably never be an oval car, I wanted to mount the battery semi symmetrically. The chassis adjusters take away the best location, so I came up with a decent compromise I think, although too forward for my liking. Still staying committed to not drilling any new holes in th...

Warmed up a little today, so good time to paint a body. I HATE trimming / painting poly/lexan bodies, so I don't put too much effort into it. I am a "looks good from three foot away" kind of guy, so I don't get too bothered by leaking paint and runs and such. This pic actually shows the wo...

Did I mention how tiny this thing is when put next to 1/10 rigs?

This thing is ending up cleaner than I originally thought it would. I am happy with how it is sitting. I have taken it as far as I can for now, as I am waiting for a body, wheels / tires, and batteries (which are still open at this point). I will start a new thread with all its "glamour shots&q...

Apart from the boiling nylon parts to stress relieve them, you dyed them when new because the parts were still clean. Any dirt or oil on the surface would prevent the dye from being absorbed evenly, so if the parts were used you have to make sure they are spotlessly clean to get a perfect finish. M...

The current plan is to dye all the "burgundy" and white parts black. Novak Rx and ESC, EastCoast Racing Motor, Futaba Magnum Tx. All of this is in hand. Will have 7.2v split C packs. Figuring out what path to take here as OG Sanyos are hard to find. Body will probably be a generic GTP shel...

hahaha I purchased a 12L myself in the early 90's along with a pack of burgundy RIT dye powder. All white parts were dyed and once dry i would started with the build...it looked exactly like your photo. i even dyes the foam wheels. I guess it was the thing to do. Some say it made the nylon parts st...

Uh, how else do you dye parts :?: I meant that if I picked up a new 12L back in the day, I would be all about getting that thing done and running. I wouldn't take the time to dye parts from the get go. Now maybe after owning it awhile, and the white parts kept bothering me, then maybe break it down...