RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just to follow up, for those who commented and anyone who comes looking for this same topic/info...here's how it went. Whitening: Overall not a ton of difference, but I feel it is noticeable. Much more so in person, of course...especially outside. (Though, my parts were pretty damn good to begin wit...

Shocks are one of the less expensive things that can be rebuilt without great effort. Even from a bashing stand point it's worth it to rebuild the shocks, gear box and clean the motor. None of the lubricants on RC are meant to last for decades. A basic clean, lubrication and rebuild will make a car...

Thnx for that info...especially the measurements, Chuck. That BOKI kit is great, other than being more than I need...though I suppose I could rebuild them, eventually. Not really sure I want to get that deep, since my main goal is simply playing again. With an eye towards maybe unloading it in the n...

Good day, folks...another question to pose, where I couldn't find an answer previously posted. I'm (mostly) rebuilding my A-stamp, with the early gold shocks...the era when they only had a hard nylon washer to "seal" the caps to the bodies. I've got 2 of 4 shocks that are (still) leaking, ...

I'm with F'n Truck on this one. Extra O molecule means more oxidizing means more rusty probabilities. Of course! I completely forgot about this basically being an oxidation process. My chem teacher would be so disappointed... [facepalm] Stuff like the bulkhead I'm not worried about, but...just gott...

Hello, all...happy to have found this resource. First off, apologies for digging up the dead, but...it seemed that adding my question (and any response) to this thread, made more sense than starting over. I am yet another person coming back to R/C with a collection of older AE cars to refresh and dr...