RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've been eyeing up the ball cups and balls used on the rc10 4wd kit. They seem to be a more modern design and may be the hot ticket. Need to see some real world use but they look promising so long as associated still sells them.

Yes it works great. On more extensive cuts with the stone, the polycarbonate kind of gets a built up edge, which you can slice off with your xacto, or bend it back and forth to break it off, because it kind of gums up instead of grinding away. But the trimmed edge is nice and clean after.

trick is to go slowly and make small cuts. you know roughly how tall the pan is, so your bottom cuts should start there plus some maybe 1/2" or so. then you have to align the rear shock tower and trim out that area so the body will start to sit on the chassis. you can grab another used body and...

sorry I did not see this sooner, work has been busy and I haven't stopped back in to the forum till now.

I would get the exact replacement tolerance wise, price should not be significantly different. metal or carbon film does not matter for this application.

good luck!

bear in mind that is the base shock, in most cases you are adding internal limiters, especially in the rear shocks which directly changes your eye to eye measurement as well as a host of the other parameters. it's essential to getting the right droop, travel and overall function of the shock.

yes, you are correct in your assumptions/investigation of the resistor. 22K, 5%, 2W axial. I suspect given the power rating and value it's part of the high voltage section, current carrying divider or something. Replacing that should bring things online if everything else checks out. you can unsolde...

I use the three step process on anodized aluminum to remove whatever is on it . First wd-40. Soak that old foam and use your thumbnail to roll it off. Follow with isopropyl alcohol, at least 91%. If there are still things present move to acetone. Sometimes you will need to lift the decals and the gl...

it's a #2-56 cap screw x 1" long according to the manual. alloy steel.

you can get 25 for 15 bucks plus shipping from mcmaster carr :https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A109/

Aw, sorry to hear. He looked like an awesome buddy.

as mentioned, the classes are defined so you can run brushed or brushless. I know Mark W. was running something with a brushed motor, I'm not sure which class. For ease of maintenance, most guys will opt for lipo and brushless, its just so much more power and simple. I run old lipo packs, 5000Mah, n...

Good to see you back

Yeah the track surface is like a dragstrip with the sealed surface. The layout is awesome. The surface is quite a challenge and super tricky to get right. Long days though with so many entries. Really cool to see these guys you've seen in magazines just hanging out in the pits. Chatting them up is p...

Nothing extra special with the clean chassis. You have a nicely modded chassis for a nice build though. If you plan to run it eventually, put some chassis tape on it to keep it clean.

something onroad with a rear diffuser. perhaps an old rc100 or 500 or something like that. I know I have seen something before with the sway bar center attachment

Yeah agreed they definitely screwed up the length and the manual. That is the real issue but you can set it up to work.