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This ad is from the September 1993 RC Model Cars (USA) magazine. There was also a Ford Ranger for the RC10T and LXT released after this ad.

twinrider1 wrote:Running the rear shocks upside down....was that the thing back then?

Yup; the o-ring seals on the prototype were bad and running the shocks upside down prevented the oil from leaking out as fast.

ESCs on the right and receivers on the left, or receivers on the shock tower to a lesser extent, just look.... wrong. No particular reason, they just shouldn't be that way lol


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i was always suprised that he kept the stock servo saver with a ziptie to keep it tight Lots of drivers used the stock bellcranks. They were readily available, fit perfectly, are lightweight, and the minor amount of play probably didn't hurt much on a looser track surface. If you notice, Cliff trim...

No, those are 2-56 which is correct for the prototype but production was 4-40. They are basically the same as the front anti roll bar hardware though I thought he was building the prototype. Which would require the 2-56 hardware. Edit: Ah, I missed the question about the Edinger cars about the quot...

I wish I knew how to TIG weld to fill in extra holes in chassis.

I think these are the rod ends and balls you need:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK091&P=7
The comparable Du-Bro parts are almost $2 per end.

Thanks Chris, I was hoping not to use re-re parts but I'll have a look through my stuff to see if I have any extras and let you know. It's a shame that the bellcranks in the car look new but are cracked at the ball studs :( They still work fine but knowing they're cracked bugs me. I know they tend ...

I snipped off about an inch of the L-shaped key and used it in a small drill pin vice; it made it MUCH easier to get the screws in straight.


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It's still nice to see what I'm getting. I scoured the RCCA back issues and they didn't have anything beside pictures of the wheels already mounted.


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Thanks for all the input. I just picked up a JG wheel adapter set with barrel nuts, so I should be good to go. There was an Andy's set on there, but they didn't quite look like they mated with the Tamiya wheels. A short-arm suspension set I got a while ago came with some aged Brat tires on Associate...

That's a bummer. I'll have a figure something else out for now I guess. Thanks for the info.


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I want to use a set of Brat tires on my buggies, but I want to use the Tamiya rear wheels so I can swap them between my RC10 and my Wild One. CRP has the adapters, but they say you need an extended axle or some kind of barrel nut, and they don't have either right now. Has anybody tried this? Is enou...

Great looking build! I had a mid-motor graphite oval car years ago, it was a great that Associated designed in the ability to swap the top shaft around. Where did you get the fiberglass? There are several types on McMaster-Carr that sound the same, I am hesitant to order in case I get the wrong one....

Side-by-side packs are longer than shotgun style packs. The only packs that would fit with the original offset battery mounting position were shotgun packs with no end caps. Did the dimensions match the description on the site? I bought a used CE this winter that came with a Turnigy pack that will f...

From the November 1989 RC Car Action. This was a sprint car conversion, so I assume the angled battery pack was for weight transfer.