RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Yep - worked out pretty well. Used Dubros on both ends of the rear links, and on the outer ends of the front links. Kept ballcups on the chassis side up front for steering clearance reasons, and to serve as a bit of a fuse to protect my old plastic Hogue steering (trying to avoid throwing down on a ...

Thanks for the tips guys - I'll try to salvage that Dubro and keep it as a backup. scr8p - the turnbuckles in ASC6259 worked just fine with the longer dubro ends, just had to thread them pretty deep. I actually just found a footnote for them that says they're the same lengths as what came in the CE ...

So I finally got my Graphite runner on the track yesterday, and ran my first lap in almost a decade... Got cocky pretty quickly in lap 2 and managed to completely snap a turnbuckle (right rear). The Dubro ends held up great, and everything else was solid - but the damn thing snapped, rendering one o...

I'd love to see a custom/aftermarket aluminum Stealth transmission case meant for the 2.60 diff gear and B4/GT/etc outdrives.

*cough* Paging Chris from Rogue...

Then again, I'm probably the ass who bought all the remaining outdrives he could find on the internet

Nice! Rebuilding one myself right now.

Mind snapping a pic of the front battery tray? Curious how you got your LiPo to fit.

I've seen several people do B4 transmission swaps, but you've gotta cut the chassis to accommodate the rectangular extrusion on the bottom of the transmission (you might be able to make a shim/spacer, but I haven't seen it done yet). When it comes to retrofitting 2.2's onto the old RC10, I opted to ...

Oh yeah! I also meant to ask.

Where in the hell did you find those rear arm mounts?!

Yeah, you are stuck with the stock diff gear unfortunately. But, after thinking about it (and seeing the same batshit insanity of rigging mine with an 8.5T brushless motor), I've decided I want to stick with the stock plastic idler and diff gears... Outdrives are virtually non-existent these days (I...

I can chime in on one thing, as it piqued my interest - the Robinson Racing steel idler gear for the RC10GT (RRP2213) will indeed fit Stealth transmissions, as the GT's original idler is part ASC6570 (same as the RC10 Stealth). The diff gear, however, cannot be used, as it's larger for a 2.60:1 gear...

Parts you'll need (via RC10 parts list ): ASC6577 - outdrive hub, right ASC6578 - outdrive hub, left ASC6570 - idler gear ASC6580 - diff gear ASC3926 - TC3 diff rebuild kit (still available, Stealth-compatible). TH breakdown . ASC6581 - carbide diff balls, 3/32", 12 total 2x 3/8 x 5/8 plain bea...

Right on, thanks for the tips guys. Seems like the old ASC6334 battery cups work for a lot of people so I ordered a set, but it looks like I'm gonna do one or more of the following: Get a block of delrin and crudely machine a 2S LiPo holder (for a 45C, 5000mAh model). Really tempted by this option. ...

Thanks for all the tips guys - it sounds like I need to track down some Kydex and experiment with it. The electrical tape route might be good for temporary track use as well. I went ahead and made an aluminum skid anyway just for grins, and got a little carried away with it... http://flargen.com/ima...

Blown FET, or missing/insufficient caps or diodes on the motor- Ah-ha, didn't even think about the caps/diodes on the motor. The ones on there were installed by me as a 12 year old, so they probably warrant further review. Motor is a Trinity SpeedGems Onyx 14-2. Got any specs/recommendations for th...

I've got an old Puretech battery strap in my RC10 Graphite, but have run into a snag - newer NiMH and LiPo packs are universally too long to fit behind the nubs on the battery strap brackets. Knowing how rare these things are now, I'd rather not cut it (plus, that would leave longitudinal retention ...

Hey guys, I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on this... I'm doing a major rebuild/update on my old RC10 Team Graphite (been sitting for around 15 years) but want to keep an old NiCd/brushed ESC and power setup for "true" vintage racing (there's a guy at my local shop who...