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That's a great idea, but I don't have one to model it after, closest I have is the manual's picture. I can do a little brazing with aluminum. Harbor Freight sales low temp brazing rods that work with MAP gas and a propane torch. They're really easy to use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-S-Round-Alumi...

Cool, I got some Kydex sheet as well as some carbon fiber phenolic from my sister in law who works here in town for a very large commercial plastics distributor; handy hook up :wink: Now I still need to figure out this roll bar and body situation. I am sure I could fit a standard buggy body on it bu...

I didn't realise it served a purpase other than the obvious. Impact absorption makes since. I looked at carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kydex. The kydex looks best by far. I am seeing 0.060" and 0.080" thickness, I've never used this material and don't know how rigid it is. Obviosly I would ...

Will any roll bar setups fit the Gen 1 Ultima other than gen 1 ultima roll bars? Like the Ultima DB?

Servos are twitching now with two out of three ESC's. Maybe I had the test pack wired wrong when I was testing servos and receivers with out the ESC.

awesome! the novak is sending about 6v now. The switch wires were cut super close to the housing and apparently just twisted tother. I trimed and soldered them. Now the futaba, it is only putting out 1.5v and the others are at 6v. Is it shot? I guess there is a transformer or resistor stepping down ...

novak doesn't have a switch. there are some wires cut real close to the casing. I wonder if someone hard wired it.

might be worth noting the aristocraft has giant heatsinks and 12 mosfet finals. It's kinda beefy looking and may be upping the output

I hooked up a pack to each speed control in question and checked for voltage on the lead that would connect the receiver. I get nothing from my Novak T4, I have ~1.5v on the Futaba MC128, and ~6v on the Aristo-Craft SP-2040R. Im guessing the last one is the only one working. The ovak was working yes...

nope. I even tried the 4AA battery pack in the receivers to test the servos and nothing. Makes me think all the Futaba receivers are bad. from left to right I have wh/r/bk on the servos and empty/r/bk on the battery pack.

Thankyou! Is it possible for an ESC to stop working overnight? My RC10 worked fine yesterday, today it won't do a thing, I can't even operate a servo with power from the ESC. I have three esc's and four receivers, today I can only get one of each to work! Could my new NiMh battery have messed them u...

I have a mix of hi tec and futaba receivers. I need to figure out what wires go in which pin slots for the ESC, servo and battery test pack. I believe the older hitec was reverse polarity and I'm not sure what's what here. I can't get anything to work. All wires are either red, black, or white.

I don't know, I have two. One is missing a tabe for the battery pack, another has about an inch missing toward the front which doesn't look critical. I was considering cutting a new one from aluminum. Any thoughts? I am currently more concerned about the roll cage and body. The body is really expens...

Go easy on me here guys, I am extreme novice. But I do love the classics. I spend most of my days restoring vintage Japanese motorcycles. I can definetly see the beauty here. I didn't realise my RC10 had similar steering, what I was reffering to was the dual posts and servo saver, but I understand i...

I bought this new in 1990 I think. It's an Rc10 team car in kit #6035. I have never raced, just enjoyed whoppin all the Tyco's. I would like to clean it up for my son and I, where should I start and where is the cheapest source for parts? Do Hobby Shops still carry wheels, tires, bodies and such tha...