RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

TheDiamondOne wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:06 pm Aint out of it yet. If those moderators view that vid, could have an outside shot possibly

Only 61mph , I know a guy who's Bruiser does 60

very frustrating , if your thinking of changing the FEP you might consider NFEP , its gets its name from NOT FEP , its what most people are now recommending as a better material than traditional FEP , I switched to it recently but other than it seems to work just fine so far I can't tell you much mo...

As above 4s lifepo will be undrivable in 1/10 , with a sensored motor I'd look at max 10.5 turn on 2s lipo , even that is overkill for a vintage chassis design and personally I max out at 13.5 turn as it just makes for more drivability . I did basically the same thing with the Yokomo Dogfighter YZ-8...

Race ready

I've had good luck with tapping holes in printed parts , if your stuck with pla then use lube and cut slowly or the friction will soften or melt the plastic , generally if I'm tapping PLA ill do several holes at a time cutting only one turn in a hole then moving to the next to let it cool , it's lab...

Finished the rear body hole patch , it's not perfect but as it's going to be glued and filled before paint it will be fine .
[attachment=0]20230418_161647.jpg[/attachment[attachment=0]20230418_161658.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]20230418_161658.jpg[/attachment]

I was always curious about the mono shock setups. Why were these so popular back in the day? Back then everyone was trying everything. The mono shock allowed the front end to rock back and forth to absorb some of the terrain. Didn't work everywhere for sure. Years later Dunn brothers used a dual sh...

Rear body mount patch is epoxied in , filled and sanded , next will be the holes in the front bonnet , not going to do anything technical there just glue a plate in behind and then fill the holes .

Today's job was to fill the unwanted holes in the front of the body , I glued in a piece of plasti-card behind with epoxy then used UV printing resin to fill the holes , painting a thin layer then curing with a UV light and repeating till the hole is filled , its very quick and the resin once cured ...

I'm pretty sold on getting a P1P and adding a few upgrades as I can afford them.

Minimum 4 walls is good , I often go to 7 or more as well as similar numbers of top and bottom layers , infill generally does not add any strength , the void space is actually what helps , in structural terms a tube is often more robust than a solid rod as it can flex better , the semi hollow space ...

Lots of wet sanding and filler primer later and I'm ready to start the next bit . A lot of full size Beach Buggys have a side faring under the body edge streching between the wheel arches and i want to try and make some for the Sand Rover body .

Preliminary side pod design , going to print one and see how it looks .

I'm dry on ideas side right now... Time to unfill the VAT more intelligently than last week... https://i.imgur.com/NigLXvz.jpg I'm getting better at this... I may need to find a bigger funnel and filter to make this even more efficiently (trying to do things, you get better and better every time, t...

Dead chuffed , nailed the side pod first time , well almost , I was a little conservative and kept it further back under the body than needed by a couple of mm , in these pictures I've used three layers of servo tape to secure it , I'd always planned on servo tape but only the one layer . 20230423_1...