RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Be careful with the JConcepts wing tubes. They are not drilled through. They are threaded at each end.

I bought a couple sets because they are nice but I usually just make my own. If I want something nicer, I'll polish them.

This is all great info for a new guy. I’m eating it up! How about: - shock collars - replacement front and rear battery mounts Frankentruck above does some nice 3D printed collars. Ed is also a great guy to work with. The rear battery mount is the bulkhead. Used and 3D printed ones are available on...

I was referring to the RC10 specific ones, with the "L" shaped brackets.

1911Colt wrote: ↑Thu Jan 05, 2023 1:54 pm I store my motors on the back of my buggies. You can just barely see it peeking out in the photo below.

That would be an expensive proposition for me. I have a display shelf and two boxes full of motors, not counting the 30+ in my cars.

I'm surprised nobody has listed the Novak Cyclone It's not my favourite... :P Same here. I have one, and its a cool esc. But far from being a favorite. I like older electronics, and I have several older Novak, Tekin, Futaba, and Astro-Craft pieces. But once they got buttons instead of potentiometer...

The heavy hitters are up top, but I'll throw some fodder in. ECX Torment, bought as a slider. Mods limited to AE Rival MT10 big bore shocks, RPM bellcranks, Hot Racing aluminum steering blocks, and steering turnbuckles. Avid S/C wheels. Schumacher front tires and JConcepts rears. Electronics: Futaba...

The last few days and a trip to the LHS. A six gear transmission, Blackfoot ball diff, metric drill bits, Tamiya plastic paint (wheels), and some extra music wire and heat shrink. Screenshot_20230109_132653_Gallery.jpg Also got a box of Am-Pro goodies from Shapeways. Most of the accessories for my n...

Got the Am-Pro upper and lower chassis braces installed. They are a little awkward to install but not terribly so.
Combined with running long screws all the way through, these really help stiffen up the chassis.

The diff balls are still available from Team Associated, but any 3/32 diff balls will work.

I remember those from the nicd days. Not saying that they never made nimh batteries though.

Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Jan 09, 2023 11:52 am the chrome colours show every little defect in the body mould , and every little paint defect too.

Real chrome is the same, magnifying dents and such.

Instead of chrome, I use metallic silver. It has more of a bright aluminum color.

motoromo wrote: ↑Sat Jan 14, 2023 2:52 pm Are they pretty tough units? Do they need rebuilding?

They were popular in their day. Like most Futaba stuff, they are made well.

As long as it operates smoothly, I'd use it. If it's sticky, clean the gears and re-grease it.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Jan 16, 2023 7:12 pm I wish my Hornet could do the jumps and flips that sweet monster truck can do.

It can, once.

Unless you don't plan on using a gear cover, I'd recommend a smaller spur. With 48 dp, an 81-82 is all that will clear an RPM cover. 87-88 will clear the stock cover. That is with the 6 gear. The Stealth has a slightly different gear placement that allows for a little larger gear. I have also modifi...

Recent project, my "Junk box Hero" As the name implies, it was mostly built from my junk boxes. While it does several new parts on it, the only things actually bought specifically for it were the body, servo saver, and lower chassis brace. It is comprised of Tamiya Blitzer parts that were ...