RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

yeah the A stamp chassis should be trimmed if you plan to use the forward mounting position. That was a running change from A to AB to B. the car should still be OK in the rear position, as it was run that way with the 6 gear as shown in the manual. an important piece to the rear suspension that is ...

yes, you can actually determine the wind by the diameter of wire and the ohm reading of each comm (you need to get down to like 3-4 decimal places), so you need a really good meter. unfortunately, the ohm reading and wire gauge were never published....so you'd have to compare to a known reference or...

Agree on the glue, but this way. Add a drop to the hole and add a drop of oil to the threads of the set screw. Install as normal. The oil will prevent the glue from sticking to the threads but form very tight to the screw and hole. I do this a lot for lower shock ends for rc10 when they are kinda lo...

nice blend of parts there!

the thrust washers are hardened.

i suppose you can cut down a b4 topshaft spring.

PDI is the manufacturer. Those were the baddest of the bad speed controllers of the time, very capable. They made the Marine one as well as a few others. One was for truck pullers. You can probably dig through the rcca archives to see if they ever did a bench test on them.

yes that's correct how you are thinking. One note, you will have to grind out a section of the c-hub, there is a thicker part on the front side that will now be on the back side and interfere with the spindle travel. depending on how much throw you need, you can notch out the bare minimum to preserv...

thats looking sweet! Those little tits on the ball ends are from when they were parted off on the lathe and they didn't post-process. I hate those things. Are they steel or aluminum?

Yeah they were probably made on a screw machine. A specialized lathe. Once the profile is turned on the ball and the threads cut, they part it off, basically drive a square tool into the material and it cuts it like a saw, but if the tooling is not exactly on center, you get the little bit of the ce...

it's a roller now! I stuck in on my lathe under LED lights, the fluorescent ones just put yellow on everything.

On to electronics and then eventually paint. That last part might take a little while

Agreed. For a shelfer, it's totally perfect solution to add some paint. The Tamiya olive drab matches really nicely with the mid shade hard anodized shock bodies.

I believe it can be done but it needs to be modified. Scr8p put one on one of his builds quite a while back.

that looks like a tip of a self tapping screw, also known as a TEK screw. The tip of the screw looks like a drill and is very hard.

That hex conversion is pretty nice. Thanks for the link! I'm gonna warn you and say that printed tower may be pretty flimsy.

6gear will be fine on a 17.5 brushless system.