This was a recent Ebay win, all I saw at time of bidding was a nice A chassis, I didn't notice the holes that were obvious to see on further inspection , how does that happen Anyway I guess they're for Nerf bars, the distance between the holes is 75mm center to center, can anyone show me what should fill the gap
Thanks.
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Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
So I fully remember back in the day when guys took their gold pans and cut all kinds of holes in them to reduce weight. I had a buddy who raced a lot and I watched him do it. Thank god I wasn't much of racer so I never vandalized my gold pan in that...
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I always thought these people should spend less time driling and more time driving. :lol:
Hi all, as this is my first gold pan. I'm after a bit of advise on what I've actually got and what it needs.
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Thanks guys.
So considering the condition of the car and the fact that it is such a mish mash, in your opinions, would you chase the correct parts? I would have no idea on how hard it would be to find them.
It would be nice to have it as period...
Rebuilding this gold pan I bought used. Does anyone have ideas on what the 2 side holes were used for? Not sure thread size yet. 8-32 screw pretty sloppy.
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Maybe nerf wings or nerf bars-
Agreed.
Also could have been used as offroad body mounting.
I firmly believe that RC is the mother of invention. People get REALLY creative in this hobby/sport.
Hi all. What the best tool to use to put the holes in Lexan bodies? Drill bit.?
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Please be aware I am a novice....
When I needed a hole for my body pin I used a teaspoon with a perfectly round handle, heated it over the gas stove flame and just pushed it through. It has the advantage that it quite neatly adds a little extra...
Is there any way of fixing stripped holes in nylon or newer carbon composites parts? Like if it's cross threaded or has been overtightened to many times.
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yeah, wax should work. I put a drop of oil on the threads, then wipe it off with a towel. the little bit remaining helps to ensure you can remove the screw.
I've had to do this numerous times with shock shaft ends when they pull out driving around....
In the past, I've used an X-Acto blade to ream holes in Lexan, by rotating the blade and gradually widening the hole. This works great until the hole gets to be a certain size--about 4 or 5mm or so--then it doesn't work so well.
I thought I'd solve...
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Of course I tried rotating it with little pressure--and it wasn't biting. If it worked as it ought to, it wouldn't have required more pressure. It seems obvious that I ended up with a crappy Dubro reamer. Using a reamer isn't rocket science.
Wallered out, I believe that's the machinist's term. :-)
I gave my no-stamp chassis a good cleaning last night. What I found is the holes where the rear a-arm mounts....mount have worn themselves a bit out of round; maybe 1/32 on the wheels side...
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I have an old runner that is like this, but when you tighten down the counter sunk screws it all lines up perfect back to normal. So just keep your screws tight! :wink:
Yes this problem happens when you run for very long times with loose chassis...