Hi all.
So i've purchased my first rc10.
The tub has been drilles extensively.
Was this a fad in the day to remove weight?
I don't imagine a factory driver doing something like this.
Would it suggest a decent racing history in your opions?
I've heard there was a drilling template for this but haven't seen one. Anyone got a copy?
Thanks
Mick.
mick355 wrote:Hi all.
So i've purchased my first rc10.
The tub has been drilles extensively.
Was this a fad in the day to remove weight?
I don't imagine a factory driver doing something like this.
Would it suggest a decent racing history in your opions?
I've heard there was a drilling template for this but haven't seen one. Anyone got a copy?
Thanks
Mick.
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There is a thread out there dedicated to all the drilled chassis that people have come across in their travels through RC life. I can't remember the exact name and location of it right now but I'm sure someone will contribute it shortly. In this cheese grater chassis topic there is a post of template that was found in Competition Plus that was designed by the AE engineering gurus and purportedly used by the AE factory drivers bitd.
Thanks guys, looking forward to seeing some video.
If any of the gurus on hear could have a look at my other thread "help to id" i'd really appreciate it.
Hoping it's not to much of a mish mash of parts.
So far i think i'm correct in saying it's a pre stealth A stamp.
Nowadays there's no real need to drill the chassis - the enclosed nature means that if you're not racing you can use lighter weight soft lipo packs.If you drill the chassis then you'd be advised to run hard cased lipos to save and damage to the pack from debris etc - any weight gain from drilling the chassis is negated by the heavier hardcase lipo pack.
Of course if you are racing then you'd probably have to use a hard case pack to comply with the rules.
yeah, drilling holes was very common, but at least yours look like the guy did a nice job drilling them on center and neatly. It should stay pretty strong as is, the rails don't look chopped down. just yeah, you will get debris in the chassis when you run it, but probably not an issue.
I'll probably run a stick on cover on the chassis to stop the debris.
I would like to make sure the towers are correct for the chassis. It came with the six hole front as a spare.
Not sure if its a cadillac or earlier??? The battery strap appears to be fibreglass and not nylon.
Yeah the holes are done quite well. I would like to strip the anodising back, and have it retreated.
With the peroxide do i just mix up a small batch and use a toothbrush to clean all the white parts.
MODS.
Can this thread please be moved to the Tech section. And the name changed to "ID help please"
Struggling to get the ID answers I'm after and I think it will be better suited in that section.
you mean whether it is an edinger or cadillac car? It's probably cadillac. looks like the car was run and run well. without any box or documentation or early parts, it's hard to tell and your guess is as good as anyone's.
as for peroxide, that's your call. the parts weren't minty white when new, so if they aren't super yellow, then they will look good cleaned and scrubbed up.
This was a recent Ebay win, all I saw at time of bidding was a nice A chassis, I didn't notice the holes that were obvious to see on further inspection :roll: , how does that happen :?: :? Anyway I guess they're for Nerf bars, the distance between...
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proline made white plastic nerf bars, to go along with their front and rear bumpers. but i don't remember them being quite that long.
Rebuilding this gold pan I bought used. Does anyone have ideas on what the 2 side holes were used for? Not sure thread size yet. 8-32 screw pretty sloppy.
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Maybe nerf wings or nerf bars-
Agreed.
Also could have been used as offroad body mounting.
I firmly believe that RC is the mother of invention. People get REALLY creative in this hobby/sport.
So I fully remember back in the day when guys took their gold pans and cut all kinds of holes in them to reduce weight. I had a buddy who raced a lot and I watched him do it. Thank god I wasn't much of racer so I never vandalized my gold pan in that...
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I always thought these people should spend less time driling and more time driving. :lol:
Hi all. What the best tool to use to put the holes in Lexan bodies? Drill bit.?
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Please be aware I am a novice....
When I needed a hole for my body pin I used a teaspoon with a perfectly round handle, heated it over the gas stove flame and just pushed it through. It has the advantage that it quite neatly adds a little extra...
Is there any way of fixing stripped holes in nylon or newer carbon composites parts? Like if it's cross threaded or has been overtightened to many times.
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yeah, wax should work. I put a drop of oil on the threads, then wipe it off with a towel. the little bit remaining helps to ensure you can remove the screw.
I've had to do this numerous times with shock shaft ends when they pull out driving around....
I've noticed that many of the hinge pin holes in Niki's '91 Stealth racer parts that came from iMaterize are printed oversize (a standard 1/8 pin is way too loose).
A #30 drill bit which is 0.1285 diameter fits almost perfectly. I've found reamer...
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It suddenly occurred to me tonight that the ProSC 4x4 uses large hinge pins. I happened to have a spare set, pull them out of the bag and measured them; 3.5mm D'oh!
Oh well, I guess I'll just have lots of spares.
before i go and drill holes, does this look like the right way to line everything up. apparently this graphite chassis is set up to be mid engine, but didn't have the holes for the stealth trans. the way they're bolted together, all of the holes in...
