Looking for Advice on Racing a Vintage RC10

[GeekSpeed]

Hi gang. Well, this is my first post here. I just found the site when I was doing a search for vintage RC10 info on RC Tech. Anyway, I have an old first run RC10 (circa 86 or 87 I think) that is just sitting around. It hasn’t been run in many years and is in pretty good shape. The thing is, I have started racing some onroad (Tamiya M-Chassis and my old TC3) and the track does both onroad and offroad on the same nights. I’m sure you can see where this is going… Basically, I think it would be very cool to run a vintage RC10 in the stock class. I know I will probably not be the most competitive, but who cares, right?

Ok, so this is what I am thinking. I would like to keep the thing as vintage as possible, while making just a couple of concessions to modern performance. Basically, these would include modern wheels, tires, and electrics. I’m on the fence about a couple of other items, however. The first is the tranny. Should I stick with the six gear trans or go with something else? If I go with something else, what can I get that would fit? I am also considering running long shocks on the front with longer a-arms. Is that a worthwhile upgrade? I also have no idea where to get the parts for this conversion. I would prefer to get white nylon pieces if I can…

So what do you guys think? I need to find some way to get the new tires and wheels on the car as well. I believe there are adapters out there? If so, where can I get them? Or are there wheels that will fit the vintage RC10 that are 2.2 inches?

I know, a lot of questions. Any help would be great. Thanks!

[scr8p]

hmm, where to start....................

lets start with the tires and wheels. you can use b3 wheels, but you'll need need to pick up a set of b2 cvd's because of needing the 3/16" axle. you'll also need 4 3/16" x 3/8" flanged bearings for the rear, and 4 3/16" x 3/8" unflanged bearings for the front b3 wheels.

i think if you want to use wider arms with longer shocks, and still have the parts be white, your best bet will be to find a complete used front end on ebay. new white parts are hard to find, and costly when you do.

other than a stock trans, you could use a 2.25 stealth. drill 4 new holes in the chassis, and you'd be all set.

[JK Racing]

GeekSpeed, I am planning on doing the very same. I purchased (by luck) a 90 team car (black chassis) and a slightly older (i think) CE edition gold tub car. Both have the wider front end, but the gold car has the 6 gear tranny, while the black car has the stealth. I personally feel if you plan on racing it, get a stealth trans, if for no other reason than a slipper clutch. I am going full tilt on my gold car rebuild, it will be my racer. I had planned on the team car as the runner, but when cleaning it up, the shelfer bug bit me hard and well.....it will probably sit on the shelf.

I plan on heavily modifying (with vintage aftermarket parts) the gold car:

Andy's Trailing Arm Set (already purchased)
Heavy Machining of the chassis (already has nasty holes drilled, gonna clean the up)
2.2 wheels on both ends (B3 rears with aforementioned bearings/CVDs & B3/B4 fronts)
RPM bulkheads (if I can get my hands on them, wide "worlds" front end if possible)
MIP or Stealth trans (probably stealth)
Novak GTB 6.5 Brushless (already purchased)
Spektrum (robbed from another car)
Airtronics 94258 (robbed from another car)
MAYBE lipo...that is still up in the air, if not my IB4200HV packs from SMC

anyways...here is a picture of my team car, so you can see the front end differences:

[FlyinGN]

you build it right it will sure as heck be competative.. No problem..

[MOmo]

I too have some questions,


So I have in my possession 2 original 6 gear RC10s (one NEVER run, the other has been used) and a 10T w/ light use. My local track is talking about bringing back a "vintage" class for those 80s era kits (tamiya, ae, losi and the like.)

I want to possibly run my 10, and 10T. I also know that the kit "spike tires" won't do well on a blue groove packed dirt. I have some tires from my GT and T2, and i could modify the rear to work with CVDs or borrow tires to work on my T, but what to do about my buggy?

I have seen some pics of people whose 10s appear to be racing. I wondered if people have any setup tips for making the RC10 race worthy on a packed blue groove clay surface.
I've been racing a long time, and have a pretty good setup on my FT B4. Pehaps using B4 shocks on the buggy? or T2 shocks on my 10T? I also need to look for a body to run, mine both happen to be clear, and i don't know that I want to paint them yet. Might need to look for replacements.

Also, I know its UBER rare, but there was a molded RPM chassis that they made for the RC10. I would love to find one, OR perhaps the Tekin chassis, for a Mid engine setup.

Any help appreciated.


MOmo

[mrlexan]

GeekSpeed, I am planning on doing the very same.

Dude you can't race that thing... it is too nice.

[templeofspeed]

If you're going to race a vintage RC10 get some B2/B3 3/16" rear axles, 10T rear hub carriers (0º or 3º), 3/16"x3/8" unflanged bearings and 2.2 B3 front and rear wheels fitted with whatever tires work on your track (you can use B4 front wheels with the GT "wide" front axles). 30wt oil and #1 pistons with green front and silver rear springs to start with. Stock gearing 81-21, mod 16 to 18 pinion 81 or 85 spur unless you're going with 11 turns or lower...then maybe a 2.65 RPM trans and 18-87... These recommendations are really for running against current tech buggies...if you're competing against Frogs and such, maybe you could tone it down a little bit to not slaughter the opposition too badly... they won't have the suspension and tire options available to anyone running vintage AE or Losi.

Good luck!

[Bugle]

B3 wheels have been discontinued, can only get narrow B2 rears and can't get any variation of B2/B3 fronts..

As mentioned you could use those wide axles with B4 wheels also can probably use B4 steering block carriers with the holes drilled out to 1/8" to get another 3mm or so width on each side.

You could use something like this to get the width out to use B4 rear wheels but you'd have to find some axles the right length http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNYW0&P=0

[scr8p]

supposedly, duratrax nitro evader rear wheels are the same as the b3 rears. i don't know for sure, but it's what i've hear.

those are plentiful on tower, in quite a few different colors, too.

[RichieRich]

Maybe wheels from the Phoenix buggy? Does Thunder Tiger have spares available that are easy to get a hold of?

[JK Racing]

GeekSpeed, I am planning on doing the very same.

Dude you can't race that thing... it is too nice.

That one isnt for racing....my beat up gold tub that I hacked up for the Andys trailing arm kit is for racing.

I am planning on finding a way to use B4 wheels (at least fronts) and some type of 2.2 rear wheel (did Yokomo make some? I have the adaptors already). I dont think the offset can be countered on the trailing arm kits to make the rears work. Maybe I should toss some metric bearings in there and run my RB5 rears? Offset is not as drastic as the B4/Losi wheel.

Temple, thanks for the starting set up, I will start there and move forward, but I will probably be using Losi shocks, I have tons of those already in the tool box.

[superfly]

I race an RC10 graphite in a vintage class and I have a few suggestions for you. I was able to find a few sets of 2.2 rims that fit the 1/4 inch rear axels I think they are AE 6808...tough to find but perfect with the old stock axels. or you can mod the rear as suggested above. That takes care of the tires...

I run the 6 gear tranny even though i have 4 stealths ready to go...More because i'm stubborn and I like running the old 6 gear...I took around 5 hrs one winter afternoon and got that 6 gear to spin silently like a stealth but theyre not for everyone. I think once theyre built right they are bomb proof and you only will need to open it up once a season...

You can still buy robinson 32pitch 56T spurs online if you look around and thats what i run...48 pitch would be good too but I'm not sure which ones would work with a 6 gear tranny.

My front shocks are the old gold ones and I'm up to a #3 piston with 30 Wt oil in them and I think I'll need to up that to 40 Wt soon as I think the shock is worn on the insides and lacking in dampening...they are the short fronts that I'm trying to replace. However that being said the front end has massive bite to it with the 30 degree castor blocks and 2.2 proline rib front tires.

MIP ball bearing steering kits still available last time i looked at towerhobbies...these are great and way better than the stock bellcranks.

I have run a 6oz Lipo 3000 maxamps pack in my rc10 and with this lighter pack the car handles soooo much better...but in any case you should try to run the pack front to back not side to side like the old gold tub...you will handle better in the corners...

Mod the rear Arms to allow negative camber on the rear hubs...this is a major improvement and should be done. You need to dremel out some of the lower part to allow the dogbone or universal to clear with negative camber.

RPM rear A-arms still available at towerHobbies last time i looked...

The new shocks from the B4 should fit nicely and would definately be better than the old gold shocks...get the threaded

A 19T spec motor will be a good starting point for a motor choice but i dont see why the old car cant run a lower turn motor...guess it depends on the track...

Good Luck with your racing and just remember to keep the car on all 4 moving forward

[MOmo]

Thanks for the tips.

I was actually looking at the RC10 i plan to run, and its pretty dirty. I want to just toss the whole thing in the dishwasher and clean it, is that safe?

I need to go through my spares and see what shocks I have and what i need to get this car to work well. I'd love to get some vintage electronics and see what she'll do. None the less, I also want to score a new body as well, since one of mine doesn't come with one.

I also found another one for sale and I m making a play to ge it too. WOW 3 gold tub RC10s! In addition, Im trying to negotiate to get my hands on a graphite RC10 as well. So, with the heavier aluminum tub, will i want thicker oil to handle the jumps? Should I go with a similiar setup that the people with the B4s are using? I have my original shocks from my B4, since my car has now been given the FT makeover. Anyone know if Lunsford or AE still has turnbuckels for the gold 10?

I think the local track is limiting it to silver can motors, which would make things interesting, but not lipo batteries.

I'll keep you posted with progress. I will check around for some B2/3 wheels and RPM arms.


MOmo