Suggestions for longer front arms????

[dspy8083]

I just got back into the hobby 6 months ago and picked up a nice graphite chassis car with stealth for $39. I have noticed that as stock the car is extremely light on the front end. So as I built it up, I wanted to shift weight towards the front. I canted the batter to get us much weight up front as possible. I have since made the battery straight forward with dual original RC10 batt mounts (pic to come soon). Here is what I have done so far:
1. RPM rear arms (1/8" longer than stock)
2. B4 hub conversion with B4 longer cva's (I had to machine inboard bearing mount .125" to clear the cva and countersink to prevent shaft bind during suspension travel (this widened the rear end approx. 1"!) *Also I added drive nut spacers with 2.2 tires/rims which added another 5/16" width per side. The rims I have a deep dish which also come out an additional 1/4" per side (1/2" more total).
3. B4 steering (allowed more forward mounting of the servo)
4. Castle 4 pole 4600kv and Castle esc
5. Lipo (forward mounted up to servo)
6. Stealth 2.25 being rebuilt for this weekend
7. Titanium turnbuckles and RPM ends

I intend to run the car a long time despite it's age which I why I didn't mind changing things over to a modern B4 design.
The rear track width is about 10.5" with the front of about 9 1/4" with stock 2.2 narrow buggy tires/rims. The extra width made a huge handling improvement!

My next stage is to get longer arms up front to equalize it to the rear track width. The current arms are the Associated RC10 long arms (but not long enough especially when compared to a B4! I don't mind narrowing the suspension arm pin mounts to accommodate longer arms. I really want this car to outdo (hopefully) the new breed!

Any suggestions for front long arms and arm mounting mods (if needed)? I don't mind doing a little modification but not a total overhaul/custom job unless the bug gets superbad, though it is merely bad at this point.
*if there aren't arms available I may make some????

[kaiser]

dynotech "klein" arms. it's what we use on our "old is new" builds.

[dspy8083]

Great thanks! They look really beefy. Are these longer than the Associated 'long' arms? If so, do you know how much?

[fredswain]

I ran the RPM World's arms which are the same length as the Dynotech arms. On the front end people use these arms with the RC10T nose plate. At the rear I used these arms with the stock mounts and stock outer hubs. I am using the B44 CVA's (CVD's? I can never keep them straight) and am using Custom Works 1/8" spacers on the axles with B4 wheels. No need to modify hubs. I tried the B4 hubs. I didn't like them. The rear end was too narrow for me.

[dspy8083]

Thanks. The B4 hubs put the wheel further outboard though right?

[soniccj5]

With klein arms, B4 castor blocks, rc10gt inline steering blocks, and wide front axles I was able to match the width of a B4.


7222 Wide Front Axle
6221 Inline Steering Block




ED

[dspy8083]

Wow that is awesome! Thank you very much. I will do this! How is it running as compared to a B4? With graphite chassis is it lighter than a B4?

[soniccj5]

Not sure about weight, but the RC10 handles very well. With the right driver(not me) they can keep up with today's buggys.

[Vermin]

I assume I could build a buggy out of a one-piece 10T graphite chassis with the Klein arms? 10T's longer than 10s?