I cant title this project, project....T1.5

[sbcnyc]

i tried baithing it in rubbing alcohol for a week, and it only slightly softened whatever jb weld oozed out when assembled, its gonna need more heat than my oven, not too big on stinking up my apartment either

its funny, ive used jb weld and only had luck with it on small repairs that dont come in contact with oil and gas, even with proper surface prep. they say its impervious but using some inside a motorcycle carburetor to try fixing a float post, reduced to a booger like slime, engine covers tend to do a bit better but the jb breaks down from the heat cycles and just chips off... it fails when you need it, and its holding when not...

im gonna try a cup of unleaded at work and see what happens, i fear heating it with acetylene will kill the aluminum

[knucklebuster]

Hurry up on the mid motor so I can steal your ideas.

[sbcnyc]

its coming its coming! i made a paper template for my motor mount, wanted to use a pan car mount but dont feel like paying 20 bux, using a turnbuckle to tie in the trans, and perhaps end up with the motor not fitting due to hitting the chassis

i really need to get my hands on either a regular 2s lipo pack that fits my gold tub 10t2, or some saddle pack lipos, the battery placement is the real hold up, i made room, think i got the servo out of the way enough but i need the batts for true mockup... having a hard time deciding because i dont want to buy both but i need the batts to test fit the motor.... so i can make one plate

AND i need to get a brushless setup too, er, two... anyone have any info on the hobbywing xtreme stock? seems like the cheapest sensored vs a viper or tekin...

gotta decide on some electrical hardware already... motor to batt to servo measurements await

[knucklebuster]

I was thinking about channel aluminum for the motor mount. Drill the top like mad for a heat sink. The base would have a minimum of three mounting screws. I have the aluminum, just need a cheap GT

[sbcnyc]

i milled a "L" shaped plate, with a lot of gearbox detail, but i still havent ponied up for my brushless setups for a motor to figure out placement angle, so its still just scrap metal, because i just HAD to have an 8th scale buggy, so i dropped 4 bills on a JQ rtr.... the more i try to get away from nitro, the sick bastard sucks me back in with that sound and smell... what a jerk, im supposed to think green...

[sbcnyc]

hey all, long overdue update on my home brew... the jury is still out on the bullydog body but eh... i did get a t4.1 stock shell too, but i wanted to give it a wolf in sheepish ...bla bla bla..

please excuse the beater wheelset, ive been having a blast with this thing everywhere.... in case anyone wants to bastardise a 10t with a foward cab... it looks the way it does is due to the rear shock tower... no way to mount around it, the tower butts up on the foward parts of the bodies recess for it... best look i could do for a body designed for a longer wheelbased chassis... and yea, bright one color shells are my thing, im all about the setup under the shell.. but i did trim it out nice and careful !

to recap, i got a 380 traxxas mini brushless setup from a buddy, i jury rigged it in the 10t.... more than enough to just scoot around, even with the tiny traxxas packs... way over powered and ended up going into thermal load... i kept thinking the tiny packs were dumping too fast , as traxxas has two sets of red blinks... slow blinks, batts are done... fast blinks, too hot.. didnt know the difference, the lipos were cold as ice to the touch, just kept getting so angry at the fact the stupid revo got 20-30 minute run times and i was getting maybe 5... i was thinking the chinese 540 sized but 380 based motor was to blame but...

....only after spending 130 or so on a pair of venom 8000mah 2s hard case packs i discovered my lil discrepancy with the speedo (and my HUGE over gearing, 23-87 with a supposed 9t/4300k motor)...so a pirated hpi speedo from a bullet (hobbywing based 60 amp) has made me the happiest wannabe racer ever, combined with the venom pack i get ridiculous runtime with full power.... nothing i remember nicads being! so yes.. i took the jump... plus side is, when wired in series the venom packs run my bump box for my now "full race" JQ nitro buggy... cost effective indeed

and before you guys flip on the cut up t2 batt strap, i have two, from a former t2 ebay score, the one i rigged to hold the big batt was already chopped up so i put it back in service... i need to work out some bracing, as the strap helped tie in the bulkhead a bit and now i have some flex, but as with anything kinda home made, theres always room for intuitive improvement, ill see how bad rough track setup goes outta wack... might be fine for the glass smooth clay stuff... ill find out in time


with my base suspension setup, this thing handles on rails, and i just finished its current state so im gonna take it out to the nitro track tomorrow and see how it fairs as a standby if i get too frustrated breaking in a new engine and playing setup with the JQ, its a bit heavier than id like and i need to adjust my shocks but, with the better esc set in zero timing mode i should have endless laps, so a "heavy" lipo is fine.. in hand it feels like the weight of a 7 cell ....

p.s. the stealth from the t2 has survived with stock plastic idler and diff, the GT slipper gets hot and i melted a spur so i run it a bit tight and ease into the throttle, trans has been flawless for the few months ive been toying... b4 slipper and a proper mod motor unsensored will class me with the short course guys if i wanna swing two race classes... but man, nothing has broke, snapped, crunched to a halt, i built this lil guy with care and will forever keep it in tip top...

thanks rc10talk, got me though a tough recovery time and a super reunion with a lost hobby.. man, you guys got me so into it again i found local racing!!! sorry i havent visited sooner, or broke out the gt tub/brushless build thread (i SWEAR its coming..eventually...ugh)... work sucks and i have so little time to play r/c

[sbcnyc]

well, i had all my stuff charged and packed, only to realize nyc was a shiet show of a parade day... makes for a pain in the ass to travel around in any form... no track..ughh.. so i just went to the nearest walking distance "open" space, put the T in a small backpack, no tools, just an extra pack and radio...

letting it rip, the two 8000mah packs totaled a full two hrs blasting around, controlled wheelies are such a treat, not like scrape and flip, but just floating the front wheels a good 4 to 6 inches, got my setup so dialed, i need to make the effort to head out of the city to find indoor electric, this thing is so comfortable and predictable i might have to shelve the nitro and focus on electric... just ordered an assortment of pinions to tone down the heat in the motor, tore apart a mint, built but never run sc10 to steal the slipper... swapped the topshaft, checked and rebuilt my diff, no ring wear, just a slightly gritty thrust, no gear wear, perfect... i think i found my holy grail of bomb proof can do all rc car!

i cant explain it but the car has so little push, but it wont get out of shape on power, just so drivable, it likes being pushed with a smooth hand... can you see me jumping up and down right now... DIALED !!!!

[teman]

Interesting use of T2 parts in the rear, I can't see fully what you did besides the bulkhead and tower. How did you brace the stealth with that combo or since you plan to go mid you didn't do anything yet?

[sbcnyc]

Interesting use of T2 parts in the rear, I can't see fully what you did besides the bulkhead and tower. How did you brace the stealth with that combo or since you plan to go mid you didn't do anything yet?

check out the first page, i cut the chassis to fit the recess of the t2 trans and drilled two holes to secure the bottom, used the t2 bulkhead in the stock gold pan side holes and the trans case bolts straight through the bulkhead up top, i also lined up, drilled and tapped the gold pan motor plate to fit the chassis as well as the offset of the gearbox...

the dilemma part, i started with t2 arm holders but they put the arms too far forward after re drilling to fit the stock chassis holes, i ended up buying a beat tub gt that came with rpm 3 deg rear mounts for a tub buggy/truck... solved all my issues with no drive shaft bind against the outdrives, the shafts are kinda angled rearward but after about a full 20 assorted packs, no excess wear whats so ever...

the bracing i was talking about was the t2 battery strap i mounted, i drilled and countersunk the chassis to fit the front plastic posts and that tied the bulkhead in, the venom packs are too tall to run as i intended so i might need to come up with some bracing but after today, no real need, chassis is still straight and handles consistant

im gonna build a midmotor outta a tub gt, been on the back burner... as far as the t.1.5... i call this project finished... refinements as it ages but its pretty solid as is... big grins all around!

[sbcnyc]

the brushless gt as promised! better late than never...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=33523&p=363480#p363480