CAT 2000 identification

[stickboy007]

I picked this one up off of eBay from Team Bluegroove, which was thankfully also sold with a ton of spares. Looks to be in very good condition, although I am still struggling to figure out precisely which chassis it is. I looked through the CAT timeline and saw elements of multiple chassis here, so I suspect it is a bit of a hybrid. I was hoping you guys may be able to help ID this one (see pics below). Here is what I have observed so far:

Front laydown shocks (2000 EC and later) and rear standup shocks (2000 only). No CAT model was sold like this from what I have been able to gather.

Upper deck is from the 2000 or 2000 EC, but the lower deck is clearly from the '98. Upper deck is carbon fiber and the lower deck is fiberglass. Lower deck was modded to accept stick packs.

Possibility #1: CAT 2000 '98 with aftermarket 2000/EC upper deck and 2000 rear shock tower.

Possibility #2: CAT 2000 with EC front shock tower and '98 lower deck. My guess is this, and that the '98 lower deck was added just for the stick pack conversion.

Possibility #3: ????

Are the gearboxes and steering bellcrank the same throughout all CAT models up to the '98? Likewise for the front and rear hubs? In other words, if I wanted to have a true blue CAT 2000 or 2000 EC, would I only need to acquire the appropriate lower deck and shock towers? Or is there other minutiae here that I do not know of but you can figure out from the pictures?

[moozo]

It's mostly cat 2000ec,
Bottom chassis is off a cat 98
Rear shock mount is cat 2000
The rest is cat 2000 ec

Mick

[Typpo]

The following scan of the U2045 instruction sheet may help. According to the exploded diagrams of the different models, the CAT '98 had a couple of different parts in the steering assembly. Additionally, the exploded diagram for the CAT '98 specifies either U2066 (S1) or U2070 (CF) for the chassis. Not sure what the differences are compared to U2045.

The hubs (14mm hex) should be interchangeable between the CAT 2000 series (original, EC, SE, '98) and the CAT 3000.

The gearboxes are basically the same (all based on U1503) though the diff out drives vary (plastic telescoping or bladed outputs) and the CAT 3000 used different belt lengths.

The CAT '98 exploded diagram can be found at the following link.

http://rcdocuments.com/documents/Schumacher_Cat_98_Exploded_View.pdf

[stickboy007]

Thanks for the info, guys. Turns out the plot is a little thicker. I took a look at the rear hub carriers, and they are from the 2000, which had an adjustable insert for the lower hingepin mount. The 2000 EC had "fixed" rear hub carriers.

Regardless, my goal with this one is to make it a proper EC. I ordered the EC rear shock tower and will eventually pick up an EC lower deck.

If only Schumachers used standard 12mm hex rims, I wouldn't have to buy a new set of tires for each tread/compound type I want to run on this chassis

[Typpo]

If only Schumachers used standard 12mm hex rims, I wouldn't have to buy a new set of tires for each tread/compound type I want to run on this chassis

You can use the following part from Schumacher to fit 12 mm hex wheels

U1886 Hex Wheel Drive - SST2000 (pr)

There are potential alternative options but they are more involved.

[stickboy007]

Awesome! Thanks for the tip.

[stickboy007]

So I ultimately decided to run this CAT2000 with standup front and rear shocks, despite eventually installing the EC upper and lower deck. I took it to my local track two weekends ago and was pleasantly surprised with it (video link below). The only change I made to the stock setup was the springs and pistons, which were set too soft for the bigger jumps on modern tracks. I adjusted the pistons to single hole with Losi 35wt oil all around, and ran Losi green/silver front/rear springs. Also added some uptravel limiters to keep it from bottoming out too hard and ruining the undertray. At least while the track is still smooth, it handles like a champ.

Last weekend, I raced it against some modern buggies (one B44.2 and two Lazer ZX5 FS2 SP) and TQ'ed. One of my friends with the Lazer was less than pleased about that and deleted every reference I made on his Facebook wall about it The race didn't go so well, since the other Lazer ran over me after I lapped him, which popped a ball cup, costing me two laps. Up to that point, though, I was keeping pace with the leaders. I didn't expect to win, since some of them drive aggressively and I'd rather finish in one piece than risk breaking it trying to win.

I think I'll need to get new O-ring seals, since at least two of them are leaking oil; however, I do not know what size these O-rings are (both the large and small O-ring that go into the seal assembly). Can anybody help with that?

I like how these shocks have the adjustable pistons, but bleeding the shocks is very messy, since there is no bleeder cap and so you have to bleed through the bottom cap threads, which gets all over the outer shock body. The manual says to fill oil to the bottom of the threads on the inside of the shock body (shocks are filled upside down), but that's actually too much oil. So you have to bleed them drop by drop until it's just right. One drop too much and you'll get air bubbles. One drop too little and there's too much rebound. What a pain! I'm tempted to just throw some AE shocks on it and call it a day, since those are much easier to maintain.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7--MucVMwVU

[8rad]

Yes schumacher shocks are a bit of a pain. If you have ever built losi shocks you either love em or hate em. The little foam compensator ensures there is always air in your shocks.

[Typpo]

Do you have another picture of the DIY LiPo mount that the car had when you received it from the TBG owner?

[stickboy007]

Sorry for the late reply...

I do have that lying around and can take a picture, but do you really want that? It's just a '98 lower deck with a carbon plate over the battery holes. You're better off sticking with the original CAT 2000/EC lower deck and mounting a B44 lipo tray (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmPFNub2kwQ).

[Typpo]

Thank you for the reply and the helpful link. This approach is appealing since I have a CAT '98. However, I found additional examples on the web so a picture is not critical.

[B3Master]

great video posted on youtube! Thanks.

I have my cat ec with the same servo mounting issue, it seems improperly built, just like mine (bought used). we have the servo saver/spring on the motor side, however as per cat 2000ec instruction manual the servo saver supposed to be on the servo side with the servo saver arm in the middle. i keep observing and just cant get my mind how its supposed to fit there.
usualy im with the "If it aint broke dont fix it". I dont feel like taking off dozens of stripped philips screws. But my steering seems too responsive or too edgy so i dialed down the steering curve to smooth it out. not sure if its from the improper mounting. feels like steering punch, not enough steering resolution. its like for every 1 degree rotating the radio wheel the steering rotates 2 degrees. (or im just tooo used to 2wd)
Im thinking I will convert mine brushless and use your method for the saddle lipos. but can you please try and confirm the servo saver installation. I downloaded the manual from competition x http://www.competitionx.com/rc-manuals/cars-and-trucks-n-s/schumacher-manuals/ clearly shown in page 18 of the cat2000ec manual and page 20 in cat 2000 manual.
Maybe back then there was some sort of speed tip trick and they swapped the installation from the manual. maybe purposely to get faster response from the servo?

Actually im just assuming here, maybe if I swapped it back to the manual installation its still gonna be edgy just maybe better belt clearance. And the steering arms wont rub on the body.

PS: mine (from all the parts gathered) was originally a cat2000 converted into a cat ec. If ever you would to run your cars back to back on same track and give us feed back. that would be awesome comparison. Then the likes of me would decide weather or not to convert it back to standup shocks. the EC feels amazing just a lousy lander.

[B3Master]

I guess the new uploaded manual from competition x has more scans into the manual download file. Now showing a U1840Q ackermann steering mod. indeed they reverse the left and right steering arms (now saver spring on motor side) and install a newer servo saver arm, I wonder if mine has the newer servo saver arm, either way the previous owner has the servo saver arm installed 180 degrees backwards, aimed towards the left side of the buggy instead of aiming between the steering arms.

My setup is max droop all around to handle my bumpy loose backyard track (inside holes on the wishbones, lower holes on the towers). Pistons 2 hole front 3 hole rear, Springs blue front grey rear, 35 wt oil all around. brushed system with gold stock motor, small tight track, the drag brake is killing me, i cant take my finger off more than 50% throttle, other than that its sweet smooth grippy ride.

[stickboy007]

Beats the heck out of me, dude If I were you, I would take it apart and put it back together the right way, per the manual. Get some replacement screws while you're at it.

[Typpo]

The following pictures of a CAT 2000 top deck (possibly part # U1518 ) and a CAT 2000 EC top deck (possibly part # U1793) are posted in light of your video comments regarding CAT 2000 rear shock tower placement. Based on the pictures, it appears the CAT 2000 EC top deck has a tab that protrudes at the back and is longer. The front of the EC top deck is also longer. There is also a slight slant to the end of one of the top decks. The circled sections in the pictures show the differences.