Buri Racer 1/8 scale 4WD electric pan car

[V12]

Hi Puffdog

Still waiting for my car, as I decided going with the final production car. I could have had a prototype or preproduction car before, but I wanted the car what will have the latest upgrades included. But maybe I will have the kit this week or next week as the kits are around the corner.

Well, I just could speak from what I experienced from a ride with one of the preproduction cars, also had a closer look to prototype cars several times. Last weekend watched two Buri cars again.

I personally will try a different ESC for several reasons but if I had to choose a proven, very reliable ESC I definitely would go with a Hobbywing ESC. I think their SCT Pro is working very good, very smooth (not really much 1/8 ESCs are smooth) and quite cheap at the moment. Also this ESC could work with sensored motors. This would be my #1 choice, maybe I will go with one of them for a spare ESC. The SCT Pro ESC also was used at the preproduction Buri car, I tried at the ENS race. And I really liked the smoothness of this ESC.
Another good ESC is their Xerun 150A ESC, this is something similar but larger and more heavy. Even similar price at the moment.
I personally also would keep with their Xerun series which are top of their line. Both ESCs mentioned are Xerun series.

I know cheaper SC8 could work also and is waterproof but it seems to me this one isn´t as smooth as the SCT Pro.
Hobbywings new XR8 ESC might be even better, but this one is very new and there are no real experiences so far. Also very expensive. Usually cheaper ESCs like SC8 don´t have good torque limiter settings also and are less capable, 80 amps vs 120/150 amps.

Regarding motors it depends on size of track and how fast you want to go. But I think best choice would be a motor with less torque so stay with 4-pol motors and around 68 mm length. Longer motors will provide even more torque what is unwanted in onroad cars, 6-pol motors seem completely wrong for our needs.
I personally had experience with a cheap Turnigy Trackstar 2350 KV motor and I´m pretty sure this is way too much power for most guys. Actually this motor would be very good with a lower KV-rating even when it´s actually a budget motor. Just sensor port is missing but seems working quite good sensorless. Other motors what might be good and still on a budget are SkyRC. Actually I wanted going with one of their 2150 KV motors but it´s not available here at the moment so I just bought a used 1/8 motor for trying.

I think there are lots of 1/8 size BL motors out there what could be tried, it´s just not sure yet if the more expensive motors have any advantage at the track. More expensive motors usually have solder posts what I like, also sensor port.
It´s not about power and torque, all of these motors have more than you need and maybe want.
Overall it seems lower KV-rating motors and using larger pinion seems better suited, resulting in more duration and is much more driveable.

Overall I think
2350 - 2500 KV motor is the absolut maximum and suited if you´re an A-Main racer at Nationals, but this is stupid fast and very difficult to drive motor. For very large tracks only.
2100 or 2150 KV motor will be still very fast but better duration.
1900 - 2000 KV will be maybe the best overall choice, less acceleration but still very fast with larger pinion.
1750 motor might work good for less experienced racers and smaller tracks. But this won´t be slow at all.

Regarding ESC setup, it´s important to go with the smoothest setting possible. Use expo at ESC or radio, go with low amp setting (torque limiter, power numbers). Remember the Buri Racer is very low weight so you don´t need that much power at slow speed, less power means more driveable.
Hobbywing ESCs of Xerun series use 9 or 10 levels of punch control, torque limiter, power numbers what ever. Go with # 2 in the beginning, this is what most guys are running. Try #1 maybe this works also. #3 might be too much. Anything more than #3 is unneeded.

[V12]

It looks like a great car, unfortunately there aren't many 1/8th scale on-road tracks left in the US.

Yes it is a great car for sure. Niki and me we both will have a Buri Racer and will share our experience.

Talking with other onroad racers, we think the Buri Racer will be best suited to a large flowing 1/8 track. We think a narrow, tight track used for 1/10 scale touring cars won´t work, same as for 1/8 gas car.
A large, empty parking lot could be suited also, but you definetely would want to go with a 1750 KV motor or even less and more ride height. Also you will have to be careful. No car, any person or dog etc. should be within racing distance. 1/8 cars are very fast, but if a track is suited for gas cars it will be suited also for an 1/8 electric as the Buri.

[V12]

Got message from Thomas my kit was shipped.
Maybe will arrive here before the weekend. At least hope so, can´t await building this car.

[V12]

These pictures had been posted lately by Thomas at Facebook.
From what I understand this is production version. Mounting plate for front body posts had been changed lately to Lexan, what should help at a heavy crash. Also it seems machined aluminium parts got a nicer finish now comparing with preproduction cars.

[V12]

Finally it happened, my Buri Racer kit just arrived.

[V12]

Unpacking

[V12]

Spreading the bags. All parts are grouped according building steps. Each bag contains more bags. Parts for a certain building step are not just thrown into one bag what would be easiest choice. Hardware (screws, nuts, bearings, clips etc.) needed for this step are collected into one bag, anodized aluminium parts each got their own bag so no scratches during shipping. Nice
Even the large main chassis got a bag.

[V12]

First impressions from the parts.
Graphite parts are nicely cutted. I really hate deburring graphite parts and from what I noticed these parts are cutted so there are no sharp edges. Not really rounded but also not sharp-edged. So if you want rounded edges you have to do some work, but it seems not really necessary. A few countersunk holes may require some deburring but overall holes are looking very nice too.

Regarding aluminium parts, especially front and rear axle blocks definitely look more advanced now. Additional positions for ride height adjustment and edges chamfered look much better.
Parts surface is not super-polished but a brushed style.

Anodizing of the aluminium parts is different than I thought. Actually I was told anodizing will be natural silver colour, now it´s a littlle darker and more of a light grey or light gunmetal. With the brushed style and satin finish it´s really, really cool and close to my personal taste. I´m really glad I didn´t go with a pre-production car but waited for the final kit version.

Pictures of axle blocks are not matching colour perfectly because of flashlight.

I will start building the Buri Racer through the weekend but don´t await a running car on sunday. I always take my time when building a car.

[Niki]

Looks so good !!! I hope to hear from Thomas soon...

[V12]

It seems I was a little too early with pics etc. Thomas posted at Facebook the Buri kit will be released officially at early October.
Manual also was not finished but I have to say drawings are really good and I think it´s easy assembling the kit when using just the drawings and parts list. But he decided added something more to the manual.
He told me he completed a few kits early and shipped to some guys for getting some feedback and final adjustments. Well, I was one of the lucky guys who got such early kit.

OK lets start the build.
First picture is showing the graphite parts, at least the large ones. As I said before the graphite parts are actually not really sharp edged but I decided doing some additional work on them.
Chassis design uses a sandwich build. Main chassis is a 3mm thickness plate with an additional 2mm stiffener plate added at the rear axle area, rear axle blocks on top. A 2mm plate is used for the radio/battery tray and fixed to the chassis at the rear with the front screws of the rear axle blocks. The front hole of this plate is enlarged and could move around the mounting hole if you want. You also could fix the plate to the chassis, depending on what you prefere. This was typical also for 1980s pan cars.

For the radio/battery tray there are some interesting features too. At the right side you can find a row of holes, this was designed for a mounting plate what comes with the Hobbywing Xerun SCT Pro ESC. You could use any of these holes for mounting so also changing weight distribution front/rear somewhat. Also there are two choices for mounting the battery, again for changing weight distribution. Battery locators could be adjusted to length of different battery packs. A different set of 52mm battery locators will be available later for extra wide batteries, the kit version is designed for typical batteries with up to 47mm wide.

Regarding the front end, the lower graphite plate (rocker plate) comes with the pivots installed so no hassle at this point. The top plate uses 2° camber fixed with three positions for castor and could be rotated for additional choices. Two holes mark the 2° version, also the recommanded use to the front. Additional plates with fixed 1° and 3° camber settings will be avaible.

A final word on the rear pod. The kit version uses ride height adjusters now with several positions. The prototype didn´t use any adjusters, the pre-production cars came with maybe two settings. Additional to ride height also wheelbase could be adjusted now. No need to buy several adjusters, just one of them rotated for different choices.

[V12]

Chassis and radio tray assembled, also 12mm tubular rear axle. Same diameter as wheel axles for current 1/8 gas cars so no adapters needed. Spur gear and parts for the rear quick change system will be mounted at next step. Rear top brace mounted with support screws for the body. Same system again as found at current 1/8 cars, for adjusting to different bodys.

Front end mounted, drive train and steering will be next step too. Currently waiting for a tool, needed for this step.

[Niki]

[V12]

Good to hear you got your Buri kit now.
Unfortunately some other stuff kept me from finishing my car. But I tried different settings, played with shimming at some areas etc. just to find what´s working best or what could be improved, for my taste. But as I received one of the first kits, I think you will have a revised/final manual now, also some things might have changed now.
OK, some more pics.

Front axle with oneway-bearings installed from factory. Nicely machined and anodized aluminium axle. Hex takes the front pulley.

[V12]

Front end rocker plate with most parts mounted. Bearings at the rocker plate come factory mounted, I think this is really good so you don´t have to fiddle with glue or have to care for proper alignment. You can see also adjusters for the oneway front axle, not affecting ride height but belt tension. I personally went with forward position later for more belt tension, picture is showing a position for less belt tension.

You also can see I went with different rings at some areas. The kit comes with c-clips for fixing front pulley, bearings etc. which is the most lightweight choice. Also you could install them just using regular pliers. I personally went with different type of rings which require a special tool for install or dissassemble, it´s a personal preference.

I also used additional washers for adjusting the front belt tensioner. Belt tensioner should match the position of front pulley, that´s why I added them.

One note also on the servo saver. My servo saver came unassembled, assembling was quite difficult as the servo saver spring is very hard and I was not able pushing down the spring and mounting the adjustment nut at same time. This is not a fault at the Buri kit but typical for any current 1/8 onroad car, as servosaver is quite short length and not enough room for lots of threads at the servo saver post. If you have really strong fingers, it´s maybe no problem but finally I found a solution. I was talking about this with Thomas and it´s quite possible the current kits come with the servo saver assembled. If servosaver still needs assembling, I will have an easy method now.

[V12]

Dogbones, wheel axles and quick change system added.

This is straightforward and easy work, just make sure axles are shimmed correctly. I personally used one shim each side. Dogbones should be adjusted more toward the inside of car for preventing rubbing at the wheel axles. There is some play needed also for not limiting steering too much. But also you have to adjust steering throw later at the radio so dogbones won´t catch at the notches of wheelaxles.
Don´t use grease at the dogbones or wheel axles. Actually grease should lower wear, but as grease also catches dust this will result in higher wear. Talking with some owners of Buri prototype or pre-production cars, it seems nobody is using grease.