Kyosho Nostalgic Series Daytona Cobra Project

[Trailsnail]

I picked up a very rough Kyosho Daytona that I intend to try and revive. Planning to try and strip the paint on both sides of the body using Dot 4 brake fluid. If anyone has any other suggestions on paint removal, let me know. This is my first venture into nitro also, so that should be a new challenge. I have been 100% electric up to this purchase. My plan is to try and cut, paint and then install some panels to improve the large holes made by the previous owner. I am not expecting perfect results, just an improvement. I will be working on some RC10 projects prior to starting this one, but will be researching ideas in the meantime.

[EvolutionRevolution]

Does the bag contain all of the parts that are missing from the chassis? By the looks of it you've got the very hard to find side chassis extenders, so that's one good thing. Keep in mind that a gas car will need cut-outs in the body to keep the engine cool.

Be careful to only buy GP Spider Mk. I parts when buying spares, because Kyosho GP Spider Mk. II parts are not always compatible with the GP Spider Mk. I/Nostalgic - to be precise, the gearboxes are a different design, meaning the top deck is different with differently sized screw holes and since the top deck on the Mk.II mounts lower the stand offs and motor mount are also different, as are the shock mounts. Everything else should work, I think. IIRC Mk. II spares and options start above SP-60 and SPW-60.

[tamiyadan]

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[Trailsnail]

Does the bag contain all of the parts that are missing from the chassis? By the looks of it you've got the very hard to find side chassis extenders, so that's one good thing. Keep in mind that a gas car will need cut-outs in the body to keep the engine cool.

Be careful to only buy GP Spider Mk. I parts when buying spares, because Kyosho GP Spider Mk. II parts are not always compatible with the GP Spider Mk. I/Nostalgic - to be precise, the gearboxes are a different design, meaning the top deck is different with differently sized screw holes and since the top deck on the Mk.II mounts lower the stand offs and motor mount are also different, as are the shock mounts. Everything else should work, I think. IIRC Mk. II spares and options start above SP-60 and SPW-60.

Good information here I didn't know, thank you. Ideally, I would like to get this to working condition, without actually using the body so the holes can be covered in this case. I have not had a chance to go through the parts yet, just pulled our for a picture and quick look.

[Trailsnail]

Thanks Tamiyadan for the feedback as well. You have a good point on the restoration sprial and I will keep that in mind. If I can get this to a functional vehicle, albeit not perfect, that will still be a fun project. To your point, I certainly don't want to invest gobs of money on a clunker. I just need you guys to stop hoarding them

The Cobra is a dream car, so I NEED to get an RC version going at some points.

[tamiyadan]

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[Trailsnail]

Thanks for the link, I haven't looked outside the US eBay so I missed this.

[EvolutionRevolution]

i'll flat out tell you

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-GP-4wd-Spider-Nostalgic-Series-1964-Shelby-Cobra-Daytona-Coupe-/222084807700?hash=item33b5493c14:g:zLgAAOSw3mpXDcLX

will actually be cheaper then the project you have when all is said and done complete, I'm not kidding.

This is very exaggerated, the key is patience and using Ebay's advanced search to look for items worldwide (also try Ebay Germany directly). Especially for Spider Mk. I parts.

[EvolutionRevolution]

Does the bag contain all of the parts that are missing from the chassis? By the looks of it you've got the very hard to find side chassis extenders, so that's one good thing. Keep in mind that a gas car will need cut-outs in the body to keep the engine cool.

Be careful to only buy GP Spider Mk. I parts when buying spares, because Kyosho GP Spider Mk. II parts are not always compatible with the GP Spider Mk. I/Nostalgic - to be precise, the gearboxes are a different design, meaning the top deck is different with differently sized screw holes and since the top deck on the Mk.II mounts lower the stand offs and motor mount are also different, as are the shock mounts. Everything else should work, I think. IIRC Mk. II spares and options start above SP-60 and SPW-60.

Good information here I didn't know, thank you. Ideally, I would like to get this to working condition, without actually using the body so the holes can be covered in this case. I have not had a chance to go through the parts yet, just pulled our for a picture and quick look.

If you need an exploded view and can't find it online, just ask and I'll scan the one I have.

[tamiyadan]

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[Trailsnail]

If you need an exploded view and can't find it online, just ask and I'll scan the one I have.[/quote]

I have what came with the kit originally, so I should be good. Thanks for the offer!

[EvolutionRevolution]

i'll flat out tell you
This is very exaggerated, the key is patience and using Ebay's advanced search to look for items worldwide (also try Ebay Germany directly). Especially for Spider Mk. I parts.

add up international shipping + time + cost of individual parts, it isn't at all.

Hobby time isn't measured in money.

[tamiyadan]

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[Trailsnail]

I'll give it a shot. My work time is expensive, my hobby time is extremely cheap.

Removed most of the inside and outside the body. Started with a graffiti removal spray that says its Lexan safe. Finished off with some Dot 4 brake fluid for the stubborn spots. A few small places to go yet, but getting there after one nights work. I will plan to re-paint this in a similar red, so any tiny red spots left should be inconsequential.

[Trailsnail]

The next step will be experimenting with removing the cloudy haze from the Lexan. Certain paints adhere to the lexan more and are more prone to this issue. The windows which were apparently later painted over with an unknown black paint seem to have the worst hazy appearance. I need to get some more polish, but I did experiment with the worst of the two headlights. Using a Drexel with a polishing pad and polishing compound, on low speed with no pressure applied. I also kept my finger on the other side of the lexan while polishing to be aware of generating too much heat. Before and after.

Before


After