Composite Craft Predator Lynx NIB build

[TravelinTravis]

With the outdoor/asphalt car finished and stuck waiting on finding a painter to get her done for the track.....might as well open the box and start the indoor/carpet car build. Big...Big Thank you to RC10resto! Here we go....

[TravelinTravis]

....well...it's gonna be a runner...so time to file the battery slots.

Fairly light at about 35deg. all around. Same for the forward and rear brace LT/RT...so the strapping tape won't break on a sharp edge during runs.

[TravelinTravis]

Battery fit up looks good....so spent some time polishing up the bits....special attention to the king pins, spindles, diff ring faces (hub/axle) and diff rings....butter....should track well. Surprised how many of those little dremel polishing wheels I went through....gotta be something more durable out there...oh well, done and wheels are cheap.

[TravelinTravis]

A little more progress. Always tighten the lower links fully closed against each link....double check hole to hole distance with calipers...and always leave the the little flat head ball end screws on all four links facing outward....easier to change or adjust the tension later without having to remove the full link. Upper links....shoot for .550" distance from inner link to inner link on each. It's a 1" AE tie rod I'm using on both cars. A t-square to eye ball the pod to the chassis works good I've found. Sometimes there's a bit of deviation between the plastic of the ball joints....these measured between .557" LT and .551" RT once squared up.

[TravelinTravis]

Once again....and not surprisingly, the old glue on the stud for the CC graphite axle failed as soon as any pressure was put to it while trying to tighten the diff......I've gone through trying to use 3 different ones and still have another NIP....but they used to fail bitd quite often too so.....on to another T&A Titianium axle. Seems there's some good modern graphite axles on the market now.....might have to try and track a couple down....the weight difference is something I'd like to have on this car as the rear is obviously a little heavy by design. Anyway....for now, stronger is better The right side hub distance to right side chassis is what it is as the only space there is a .016" Trinity thin Magic bearing spacer. This means the RT side hub is just lined up between the RT side rear body post hole and the outside RT edge of the chassis. Soooo....the LT side is spaced exactly the same distance out...using a combo of bearing washers, thrust washers, etc.......spins free and easy.

[TravelinTravis]

Shocks rebuilt, mounted and all lined up even......

[TravelinTravis]

Now it's a officially a roller...face to face with big brother! Electrics up next.

[TravelinTravis]

Electrics.....went with a mild 20 turn for starters.

[TravelinTravis]

Outdoor and indoor car....almost ready for the summer!!! Still need to solder up connectors to the esc and fab another bumper for the NIB...plus cut and mount another TOJ....and find somebody to paint them up. I've got 3 saddle packs already soldered up and another 6 more to do.