need help
- PBR Allstar
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Re: need help
RC Chick,
Updating to 2.2 wheels is pretty easy, Really the most important thing is having 3/16" rear axles as opposed to the 1/4" axles. If you're running CVD's then you can get just the axle portion of the cvd and change them out. That axle is still easy to get, it came on B2/B3 and GT's which is associated p/n 7380. If you're running dogbones then you need the 3/16 stub axle cup, p/n. 7378. the front you don't need to do anything.
For wheels you can use B2/B3 wheels which are getting a bit harder to find or you can run the duratrax wheels which are available in a few different colors, but don't try to dye them because they are hard plastic, not nylon like the associated wheels you're used to. Just a disclaimer, I haven't tried the duratrax wheels yet, I have two sets NIP so if you want to go that route I can double check for you before you order anything, but several memebers on here run this setup I believe.
front wheel from the electric evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT5&P=Z
rear wheel from the nitro evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP3&P=M
Updating to 2.2 wheels is pretty easy, Really the most important thing is having 3/16" rear axles as opposed to the 1/4" axles. If you're running CVD's then you can get just the axle portion of the cvd and change them out. That axle is still easy to get, it came on B2/B3 and GT's which is associated p/n 7380. If you're running dogbones then you need the 3/16 stub axle cup, p/n. 7378. the front you don't need to do anything.
For wheels you can use B2/B3 wheels which are getting a bit harder to find or you can run the duratrax wheels which are available in a few different colors, but don't try to dye them because they are hard plastic, not nylon like the associated wheels you're used to. Just a disclaimer, I haven't tried the duratrax wheels yet, I have two sets NIP so if you want to go that route I can double check for you before you order anything, but several memebers on here run this setup I believe.
front wheel from the electric evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT5&P=Z
rear wheel from the nitro evader bx:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP3&P=M
Re: need help
Thanks PBR,
I found the link I was looking for last night. I put all the parts on my wish list at tower hobbies so I wouldn't forget what they were. I should have do it before but I thought it was to much money, now that I look at it I see its not that bad. Ive spent that much in wheels and tires for it already. Maybe ill keep a set jellybean rims and two sets of tires and sell the others I have.
I found the link I was looking for last night. I put all the parts on my wish list at tower hobbies so I wouldn't forget what they were. I should have do it before but I thought it was to much money, now that I look at it I see its not that bad. Ive spent that much in wheels and tires for it already. Maybe ill keep a set jellybean rims and two sets of tires and sell the others I have.
- highwayracer
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Re: need help
I agree. If I could avoid this, I would..especially if there are actual parts that can be used to achieve this. I did this years ago when I put losi axles on an RC10...couldn't find a bearing and didn't want to use a losi rear hub.scr8p wrote:there's a reason this was his 3rd option. mainly because it's not the best one.MONSTER wrote:highwayracer wrote: 3. Use the original carrier and bearings, but make a sleeve to fit over the axle to increase its diameter.
RogerI wanna hear more about this.
- highwayracer
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Re: need help
Wow, this internet thing is pretty usefulJK Racing wrote:http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=item&id=88&prevaction=category&previd=1&prevstart=0highwayracer wrote:1. Find the correct flanged bearing (difficult)
$1 each, reasonable shipping too.


- bearrickster
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Re: need help
Ok My chassis is cut so when it gets here it will get all polished up sanded smooth. So what is better if I am going to run it a little. Paint or Powerd I own a bodyshop so I have automotive baseclear. how well does that hold up? will a good paint with clear hold up well enough? for light running if I use a chassis sticker?
is anybody doing any powerd coating on here?
is anybody doing any powerd coating on here?
Re: need help
bearrickster wrote:Ok My chassis is cut so when it gets here it will get all polished up sanded smooth. So what is better if I am going to run it a little. Paint or Powerd I own a bodyshop so I have automotive baseclear. how well does that hold up? will a good paint with clear hold up well enough? for light running if I use a chassis sticker?
is anybody doing any powerd coating on here?
I powder coated two of my chasis's. One is a shelf queen and the other isn't quite ready to run. I painted a chasis with autmotive spray can and then gave it to my friend to put the clear coat on(hes a body guy too) That one is also a shelfer. but I will tell you this when I put screws into the hols on the painted one the paint chipped a bit. Maybe poor paint I don't know. No problems on the powder coated ones though.
- bearrickster
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Re: need help
that happened on my painted Jrx2 chassis also thats why I asked. what does it cost to have a chassis coated?
Re: need help
bearrickster wrote:that happened on my painted Jrx2 chassis also thats why I asked. what does it cost to have a chassis coated?
I paid 50 for one and the last one I did was free cuz he was alreday doing something in the same color for us. I had to choose colors the guy had mixed already so I didn't have to pay extra for paint and mixing so you should ask when you go to powdercoat.
- bearrickster
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