Losi JRX Pro and Fibrelyte Chassis restore (31/04/12 update)

[Alex B]

I used 320 grit wet and dry to get the worst of the scratches out (you need to be brave and careful at the same time) then 600, 1000 and finally 1500 grit wet and dry (the chassis will look rubbish in terms of finish but the clear coat will take care of that). After a thorough wash in hot soapy water I shot 5 or 6 coats of regular halfords clear coat leaving around 15 minutes between applications. I found the key to getting a good gloss finish is to apply the clear coat in light layers holding the can around 3 to 4 inches from the chassis, any further away I find that you get more of an 'orange peel' which needs to be flatted back then polished to give a glossy result. You need to make sure you get an even covering I found it helps to have a light above where your working to check the covering.

Actually, if it's for a shelfer, there's no need to go through all that clear-coating and subsequent wet-sanding to get a glossy look. Once you've finished wet-sanding up to 1500 or higher grit, the key to getting a polished finish is simply applying rubbing compound and giving it a good buffing, then do the same with polishing compound. I usually follow that up with an application of Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor. There's no need for a clear-coat protection for a shelfer, IMHO.

In fact, it's not the clear-coat that makes the finish glossy, but the wet-sanding you did (all over again) after the 1500-grit. If you're spraying clear-coat out of a rattle-can, I almost guarantee you'll get orange-peel, regardless of methods. That will just have to be wet-sanded out again. For a shelfer, just skip the clear-coating and apply rubbing compound, polishing compound, and Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor after your final 1500-grit wet-sanded surface.

Just saying this to warn others in advance before they start clear-coating everything and getting frustrated with having to waste more hours wet-sanding out the orange-peel you just put all over your nicely sanded surfaces.

Perhaps I was lucky but I didn't get orange peel, although to fair I have got it the past when I've painted bits and pieces on my road cars.

I don't disagree with want your saying but I used the clear coat to minimise the amount I had to sand away, a bit like using the clear coat as a filler in certain areas.

[peetbee]

Cheers Alex, I suspect that there are too many deep scratches in my chassis for it to work

[brian s]

Not sure I could run the Works 93, it is by far my most precious

[/quote]

hey alex, awesome yokomo, always wanted one of these as i`ve never run any of the early yokomo cars, was more of a schumacher fan.

[Alex B]

That looks awesome Alex! Who knew you could restore a carbon fibre chassis that way? I'm not familiar with the Halford's finish, is it a polyurathane? How hard a finish will it be when its cured? I suppose you could always put a chassis protector on it if you did decide to run it.

By the way, you can use some good metal polish and get a chrome like finish on that motor plate, or as I have done in the past, you can respray it silver. For one of my JRX2's I found a semi-flat silver that looks very close to the original finish.

It's just rattle can car clear coat, I'm not sure how hard wearing it would be for a runner. I thought about painting the motor mount but I wanted to keep the losi stamp visible on the rear and I wanted to keep a matt(ish) finish hence why no polishing.

[Alex B]

Not sure I could run the Works 93, it is by far my most precious

hey alex, awesome yokomo, always wanted one of these as i`ve never run any of the early yokomo cars, was more of a schumacher fan.[/quote]

I was the only one who ran a Yokomo at Oakdale back in the day, most others ran the procat.

[brian s]

which of the oakdale venues did you use, pontlanfraith (spelling might be wrong) or the later venue up on the top of ?(cant remember the name )

[Alex B]

which of the oakdale venues did you use, pontlanfraith (spelling might be wrong) or the later venue up on the top of ?(cant remember the name )

It was at Pontllanfriath leisure centre back in the late 80's. Raced for around 2 years. Gave up when I discovered mountain biking. From recollection I believe the club moved to Markham in later years.

[brian s]

wednesday night at pontllanfraith leisure centre, remember it well, did most of our racing at gwent model club in st julians school newport.

[Alex B]

I didn't have to bring any work home this weekend so I thought I would spend the time doing a few jobs on the Losi.

I finished the chassis a while back so I left the clear coat to harden for a couple of weeks.

I concentrated on getting few jobs completed on the front end.

Shock mount, front arms and bulkhead complete, I used some trinity shock mounts to add a bit of blue bling and a white bulkhead, I'm not sure is the right one but I think it looks good.



Mounted to the chassis



Added the rebuilt shocks



A good second hand bumper mounted



Lastly, cleaned up original steering mounted.




I'll complete the rear end and suspension when I receive the titanium turnbuckles from Hong Kong in a couple of weeks

[Alex B]

Finally finished

[slow_jun]

Sweet..... need a new keyboard..... drooling over now...

[legooolas]

Whilst this thread is from looooooong ago I have a feeling that that JRX Pro was about 90% made from one I sold years ago.

But when I sold it it was a Pro SE and didn't have a box, but it definitely had a Fibre-Lyte chassis and the moulded pink wing with Fibre-Lyte stickers on it, so I'm 99% certain that was my old Pro SE!
I regretted selling it soon after -- I didn't know that it was still (just about) possible to get parts to keep it running, and I'd become nostalgic for it almost immediately afterwards...
Also had no idea at the time that there would be such a surge in the popularity of vintage racing!

(It being a Pro SE explains why it had the swept front arms and slipper, which weren't on the JRX Pro I don't think?)