Wicked! This is precisely the type of car I want to build for my local strip, looking forward to more updates. Lot's of Chevettes were turned into drag cars so you should easily find a radiator that's already set up for the V8 conversion.
I never have been into full blown drag cars. I like street cars that are fast in the 1/4 mile. Standing mile and road course racing stuff is my interest.
I think the fiero guys have retrofitted brakes off of a couple of different FWD platforms to the chevette spindle or the fiero version of it. The fiero used a chevette front up front and a citation front in the rear if you didn't know. It might be worth looking into as it should be fairly cheap to do and will most likely give you a five lug conversion as well.
"It is not how you finish but how you qualify unless you qualify bad then it is how you finish."
Words of wisdom from the Cox bros at my local track.
biff85ta wrote:I think the fiero guys have retrofitted brakes off of a couple of different FWD platforms to the chevette spindle or the fiero version of it. The fiero used a chevette front up front and a citation front in the rear if you didn't know. It might be worth looking into as it should be fairly cheap to do and will most likely give you a five lug conversion as well.
Thanks for the info. I will remember this for the future when it comes time to upgrade.
RC10th wrote:That Chevette is gonna be like this, the ultimate sleeper. I look forward to following this further
I won't be running 9's at 130 that's for sure. I could if I felt like sticking a turbo and some fat slicks in the rear. But ill be happy with the stock engine or maybe a mild cam in the future when the engine needs an overhaul.
Got a couple hours to spare in the garage so I lowered the steering brackets. Engine goes back in soon and ill start on the mounts as I find the proper steel.
I got a few free hours after work today so I made the drivers side engine mount. The frame mount is just tacked till the engine comes out again and I got the proper space to get to it. Here's my updates pictures.
The store didn't have tubing the right size for a bolt to go through. I went with the next best thing. Counting the free sheet of .125" sheet steel my engine mounts cost me $19.95 plus tax. Probably cheaper than buying tubing and grade 8 hardware individually anyway.
With the tight clearance, maybe .5" between my oil pan and steering rack. I couldn't use stock style rubber mounts. And for the added cost I didn't feel the rewards of polyurethane bushings would be worth the minimal dampening they give. I plan on tying the subframes together when I redo the floor in the cabin. And trust me, I plan on welding up the front frame rails to the unibody much more than they are.