FARMERS Official ORANGE RACER Build it is DONE 8/27/12

[farmer]

ok well here is some more stuff i did
was looking for some orange shocks
but i thought that would be to much
so i did a lil polish job step by step for ya
i know you can do other things to remove the anodize
but i wanted to get rid of some dings and scratches
there is about 1 hour into each shock
dont mind the shock nuts and such just on for a mock up
here we go enjoy
farmer

[farmer]

here is what the look like on the car
and some my dye
work
enjoy
farmer

[JK Racing]

quit making it pretty and get some dirt on there already.

[farmer]

lol waiting on a servo now
also still having alil prob with the rear end carriers still binding even with the crush tubes
farmer

[finman]

Excellent build, great colour.

Are your turn buckles black and if so what are they and where can you get them from.

Rich

[scr8p]

they're stock associated turnbuckles. you can get them pretty much anywhere.

[Charlie don't surf]

Casual observations-

Ditch the alloy screws as shock mounts unless you like not finishing races
Ditch the alloy screws in the nose brace tubes and chassis mounting points too
Love the RIT Tangerine color!
What shell are you running?

[farmer]

reggie
in these pics are the areas in red the concerns
if so
could you shed some light as why
i used all the factory team on my t3 and b3 with out any probs
what probs do u see arising
if it has to do with the aluminum
do the make the factory blue in steel?
thx farmer

[losiXXXman]

You basically don't want to use aluminum any place where the screw carries a lot of load, i.e. the shock mounts upper or lower, and those places that hold the chassis pieces together nose brace tubes, and the three screws that connect the chassis bottom to the nose plate. I think there are other places, but could be worng - where the motor plate screws to the rear of the chassis, and where the chassis screwas to the sides of the rear bulkhead maybe? I'm not an RC10 expert...

[JK Racing]

the three screws that connect the chassis bottom to the nose plate.

These are aluminum on the original kit, using blue aluminum ones there is no issue. I dont think the 8/32 screws are the concern as much as the aluminum 4/40 screws are (so farmer, your second picture are the screws with concern).

[losiXXXman]

Joey is right about that. I may have misunderstood what Reggie was saying about "chassis mounting points". I think he was referring to the chassis mounting points for the brace tubes. Not the 8-32 chassis screws.

[farmer]

i will have to look into making this change
do they make the upper blue shock mounts in steel in blue?
really like the offset
also having a lil prob with the jeepz arms
running the b4 cvds and even running front 10t shock shafts in the rear and 1/8 spacer
and im still getting almost cvd pop out from the outdrive they are staying in but man its close at full arm extension
?????????
farmer

[JK Racing]

the shock mounts can be aluminum, the shock mounting bolts should not be aluminum.

how much down travel are you using? my b4/jeepz armed car seems fine on the dogbone into outdrive area.

[scr8p]

using that mip trans your outdrives are higher off the chassis than a standard stealth. that's most likely why you're having that problem.

[farmer]

here r some pics
im getting almost 2'' at full extension
inside holes on the arms 2nd to inside on the towers
what r u getting joey
farmer