My "very late" RC10 CE

[jwscab]

does the shock shaft fit in the one with the small hole? if it doesn't, i would bet it just missed a machining step. If you have a drill press, you can easily drill it out to the size of the other bodies and call it done. that bevel is likely just to assist with assembly, but not really necessary.

[DaveM]

Same as jwscab,

Maybe the bevel is probably just to remove the sharp edges on the hole after drilling.

I have been looking on Shapeways and someone has made caster blocks for a B3 in 0, 2.5, 5, 7.5,

10 degrees.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2064790/rc10b3-dirt-oval-castor-block-0-degree.html?li=search-results-5&materialId=6

I had a look at my B3 caster blocks they look like they should work in a RC10.

I can have a good look at them later if you are interested to make sure they work.

Cheers, Davem.

[BWX]

does the shock shaft fit in the one with the small hole? if it doesn't, i would bet it just missed a machining step. If you have a drill press, you can easily drill it out to the size of the other bodies and call it done. that bevel is likely just to assist with assembly, but not really necessary.

Nope the shock shaft does not fit though the one hole. I bet I could drill it out too. I was just wondering if the bevel is necessary on the bottom.

-EDIT_
On URC I was asking around and one guy just responded:
"these shocks have "hat bushings" that slip into the hole, one side it smaller and raised."

So I think I am going to try to get a replacement of that shock tube from ebay guy.

[broodenburg]

I could make a foto of an RTR shock? I don't know however if they are the same as yours....

on the other hand: I would contact your supplier and try to get a new one!

@ Davem: castorblocks look nice. What degree would be best if I don't drive on high bite race tracks?

[DaveM]

Hi bwx,

From,

http://www.dirtoval.com

"What you need to do is change the caster blocks.

The RC10 has 30 degree nose plate for off-road racing which is way too much for oval or on-road.

I am still researching and trying to learn about setup.

Cheers, DaveM.

[BWX]

Got my dyed parts put back on the front.. all black looks cool. I ran into trouble on the rear hubs, they didn't fit. I thought they were a direct replacement but I guess not? Well I forced them into submission anyways with sandpaper, razors, and finally, a big honking drill.





Looks pretty tough to me.




Those are blue though- the B3 shock mounts..




I guess all black would be keeping with the "all black late RC10 CE theme" anyways.


I'm still amazed how well that Rit dye works. I wonder if I weakened my parts by having them in there for several minutes though?


So here are the 0 degree hubs I was trying to use.. (got some new roll pins too)


-and going to use some new bearings..




But what have we here? Hmm... that's not right.


Yeah, that's not going to work.


...after some sanding..




Nope.. still not gonna work.

After yet more sanding..




I guess i will have to keep freaking sanding..




So I already sanded a lot..


Now I can get a roll pin in there with a spring washer..


And on the back it is fine.. but not even room for a spacer (shim)


All good I guess..




After some more sanding on the other side (like 15 min worth), and several test fittings taking roll pin out every time..
Strange that is wasn't a direct fit though.


All finished up- both sides..






Using a couple of nuts to get the shocks more straight up and down.






So w/ motor or batt or wheels... it weighs 888.4g. Is that heavy? Light? I dunno.


So before installing the wheels I made an RC10 rear wheel balancer out of spare parts. I had an old worn out CVA shaft that I tore apart to use as the axle..








Used a bunch of Silicone to balance wheels.. (have some vids ready to edit testing the ballooning of tires on the balancer)

This one is just a blob of silicone..


This one has some tiny lock washers embedded in silicone for weight..




So I go to install wheels and guess what? When I tighten the nut down on the wheel even a little... it causes drag on the bearing.

I realize this is because the bearing is resting on a ridge inside the hub because I had to sand so much material off of where the outside bearing race sits. Also the JCracing wheels have always seemed wobbly compared to stock wheels and even my HPI superstar wheels, unless I tighten them down quite a bit more than I want to..

I discover that the roll pin floats around a lot more in the JCRacing wheels than the stock wheels. It also sits a lot deeper down in the wheel.





So either way it has to come back apart.. I have to get that bearing sitting down in the hub better. After about 20 min with various hobby knifes and razors..


It ain't working..
Trying to cut down that ridge without destroying the surface the bearing sits on is almost impossible.




Then I remembered I have a drill bit that size.. Wished I would have thought of that before.






Perfect!


Before there was a small space between bearing flange and surface (didn't get a pic of it)




Ahh.. but there are still slight issues.. now the bearing is slightly wobbly on one side of one hub (I only drilled one hub sop far). I need to buy new hubs, or just use old 1.5 degree hubs, or resurface inside of hubs with thick CA or epoxy or something, and then re-drill. I don't think it was the drilling, but hacking that ridge with the razor before I did it the easy way with the drill that made the bearings fit a little loose on one side.

Both sets of wheels fit perfectly otherwise. I had to sand down the inside hub of the JCRacing wheels a tad for them to fit right without having to be tightened down so much.

I'm not sure why all the sanding and drilling is needed in the first place though.. It is these hubs that I bought (below). They should fit perfectly, but they are way too wide.. then when sanded down to fit, there is a ridge inside that hits the inside bearing race that needs to be drilled out! I don't get it.




I'm not even sure why that ridge is there either. Oh well..



I ended up ordering some new rear shock bodies after talking to e-bay-er who sold me defective set. We ended up coming to conclusion that you can't buy just one.. so I ordered a new set and I think he's gonna reimburse me with a partial refund which is cool.. I found a set for $17 at "hopmeup" on ebay (bought from them before) Fee shipping, no tax. Should get them soon.

-edit-
Oh and I got these too..

This should be fun!


I am using these now..


Just got a good deal on this one.

[jwscab]

those hubs should be used for 3/16" axles, not 1/4". the bearings that fit are not flanged, therefore, you had to fight the fit due to the additional thickness of the flanges. I think if you had used 3/8" x 1/4" unflanged bearings it would have dropped on.

should have popped in with a quick question first, but it looks like you beat them into submission properly

as for the RIT dye bath, if it was hot or cold, no worries, nylon will absorb moisture, which is why they can take dye. the added moisture actually helps the parts by being more flexible, able to withstand greater impact.

[broodenburg]

Hi broodenburg,

From,

http://www.dirtoval.com

"What you need to do is change the caster blocks.

The RC10 has 30 degree caster for offroad racing which is way too much for oval.

Kipps Hobbies has 5, 10, and 20 degree blocks on his site"

http://www.kippshobbies.com/

I am still researching and trying to learn about setup.

Cheers, DaveM.

Thnx DaveM
I'll have a go at lower degree castor blocks.

[BWX]

those hubs should be used for 3/16" axles, not 1/4". the bearings that fit are not flanged, therefore, you had to fight the fit due to the additional thickness of the flanges. I think if you had used 3/8" x 1/4" unflanged bearings it would have dropped on.

should have popped in with a quick question first, but it looks like you beat them into submission properly

as for the RIT dye bath, if it was hot or cold, no worries, nylon will absorb moisture, which is why they can take dye. the added moisture actually helps the parts by being more flexible, able to withstand greater impact.

LOL! I have some of those bearings too.

Oh well. I think I can make these hubs work, but next time.. I think I'll try the other bearings first.

Good to know about the dye. I heard someone on youtube talking about parts weakening if left in the hot water too long. I think he was talking about straight up plastic though.. but the parts he had were nylon, so not sure what he meant.

-edit-

LOL! All I had to do was RTFM!


... but I don't have those bearing on hand so I might have tried to "make them work" anyways.

[BWX]

Hmmm. I could have just used these! (and then dyed them black if needed) Not sure why I never saw those before... they seem to be zero degree hub carriers that take the regular flanged bearings. They look a little different though, on the side.

Oh well. I guess this is actually the first RC10 I have ever "built" so-to-speak, so no wonder there are all these little things I never ran into in the past.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6365/












-edit-
And I wonder if I need to use the spring washer on the axle behind the roll pin, or if I could just set it up to have a little tiny bit of play, and use just a spacer? I have always used a spring washer, but I see that some instructions don't mention it at all- such as the graphite car with CVAs.

edit again, here's the part...



edit- Oh here it is in the CE manual, it is called a "cone washer" (#6388).. I wonder why the difference?



Should the cone washer not be used with bearing, only with bushings? Or should it only be used with dogbone type axles and not CVDs or CVAs? Hmmm...

[DaveM]

Hi bwx,

Looking at the Team Associated classic manual they are not using the spring washer just Associated

6373 shims.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10_Classic/RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf

You would think Team Associated know how to set up a RC10 for on-road,

Here is a link for the RC10 from the movie Dead Pool, have a look at the front end shot, looking at

the king pins they look to be all vertical, the caster blocks must be a very low degrees, the lowest

ones I have seen from Team Associated are # 6211, 5 degree caster, they have recycled the

number now the new blocks are white 30 degrees don't get them.

There are some at the moment on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASC6211-RC10-Front-Carrier-block-5deg-Caster-NOS-/191481580293?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c95310b05

Cheers, DaveM.

[BWX]

I plugged in the part number at ae website and got the 15 degree ones.. (I think that's what they were, would have to check)


Yippee... new parts coming!

[DaveM]

Hi bwx,

The 6211's on the team associated site are 30 degrees, you will need to get the old stock 6211's

which are 5 degrees.

There are some 5 degree blocks at Shapeways.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/2072789/rc10b3-dirt-oval-castor-block-5-degree.html?li=search-results-5&materialId=6

They are for a B3 but should work.

Cheers, DaveM.

[BWX]

Hmm...



Oh yeah, now that I look, that is the only one the have besides stock 30 degree.


Wow, I have some 5 degree ones I bought over ten years ago. I am glad I did back then I guess.

These are pics where the block is just stuck to the end of the hinge pin that is sticking out.

[DaveM]

Cool,

So you had the right ones and you didn't even know it.

I found I had some 10 degree caster blocks, I put them on my 37 Ford Oval Racer, and when I

rotate the wheels, left and right, it looks a lot better, a lot more tire/ contact patch on the ground.

Cheers, Dave.