Brushless

[bearrickster]

what are you all running for stock class brushless. I see all kinds of Mods but for the Vonats it says 17.5 brushless, and I looked them up and their all over the place in price. what is everyone running?

[tulsa]

rick, for the price you can't go wrong with the novak havoc spec 17.5 combo ($149) i am very pleased with mine and zero problems.

[PBR Allstar]

It really depends on your budget. If you don't want to spend a ton, then the setup that Scot recommended is the way to go. If money is no object then go Tekin RS with a motor that has a rated rotor in it, (I run putnam motors exclusively but novak just came out with a 1300+ ballistic) It's going to be hard to keep up with a timing adjustable esc (tekin RS, Novak Kinnetic, MMP) with a non timing adjustable esc.

[DumbstixLars]

How many kV's does a 17.5 run?

[tulsa]

How many kV's does a 17.5 run?

2200

[bearrickster]

I dont have a budget I am poor, thats why I am looking and want to get the right one the first time, as I cant afford to buy the wrong one. its just I thought stock was stock but one is 150 one is 250 their has to be a difference. I know nothing about all this new tech, and their isnt a hobbyshop around to keep up.

[Konich]

I just switched over to LRP SXXTC (Durango) and a SXX in my B4. I also run the X-12 motors, and with the timing advance its definately faster than my GTB/Ballistic setup I had before.

[markt311]

I've had good luck with the Novak GTB, you can get a remanufactured one from Novak direct for $90 or $100 and it comes with a full factory warranty. I went the cheap way for a motor and bought a used LRP X11 17.5, Pretty fast little motor. I've never run a timing advance ESC, I can see how that would be much quicker for competitive racing. But we're talking about vintage cars here, so I saw no real advantage with timing advance VS the higher price... I'm cheap!!

[sneako43]

Like you, I am on a 'budget (which means I don't have buckets of cash to spend on RC stuff). I put a Novak Havoc 10.5 system in my SC10 and love it.

When I can afford a BL setup for my RC10T I will most likely choose another Havoc setup. Another setup I am thinking about is the Associated 540R 3300kV Motor/XP SC450-BL ESC; it's less than $120.00 and it's when comes with the new 4.1 RTR kits from AE (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZMX1&P=0).

$150.00 is my limit for both my wallet and my needs when it comes to having fun in the dirt.

[Toasted Coastie]

I have the LRP Eraser set up in my Yokomo 870c with the 13.5t motor. Was less than $150 at an LHS.

[bearrickster]

I just checked tower and they didnt have any LRP sets anymore

[Toasted Coastie]

I just checked tower and they didnt have any LRP sets anymore

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=55852

However, you need to call them and have them check to make sure the hall sensor wire is definitely with the package. Mine didn't have one, and I had to order it from tower. Was only 7.95 for the sensor wire though

[Brandon G]

If you want cheap and US made, go with the Novak GTB reman and just about any BL sensored motor. If you want the Novak Havok, be prepared to buy only Novak motors, cause they have a thermal dectector in the motor that the ESC MUST see. Many of the other aftermarket motors dont have this detector built in.

If you want reliable, go with just about anything LRP.

Tekin is good, but pricey.

I wouldn't worry about timing advance unless you are competitively racing onroad or dirt oval. Personally, I hate timing advance. Our local indoor dirt oval has a rule for running sprint cars. 13.5 BL is as fast as they allow. I had a 10.5 out of my B4 that I planned on using with a GTB w/o timing adv. They said "No way!" Well lo and behold, the 13.5 with timing adv goes just as fast as a 10.5 without. So, to keep up in the ultra competitive class, I have to buy a 13.5 motor and a speedo that I can engage cheat mode on. Just money flushed IMO.

[DumbstixLars]

How many kV's does a 17.5 run?

2200

Cool thanks.

[sneako43]

If you want reliable, go with just about anything LRP.

Are the XP components designed more for sport and LRP for competition? Is the XP stuff reliable, as well?