I am finishing up my RC10CE driver project and realized none of my batteries fit. Anyone have a LIPO that fits this set up? I am thinking a soft case would do it but I'd rather stay hard case for Lipo if possible. Or at least a decent 6 cell NIMH, mine are 5000maH, perhaps smaller maH would make it happen but I don't have one to compare?
I think this one does too. I just ordered one for my champ edition. I'll guess I'll find out soon enough. Its 5mm shorter on the length and 3mm smaller on the hight
Batteries have not fit in that space since the 1200SC yellow labels. In fact, those holes weren't even put there for a longitudinal battery cup—they were put there for the resistor speed control as an optional location.
For any and all batteries after 1986 or so, you had to drill new holes in the center of the chassis for the larger batteries. Ironically, the batteries we all used got increasingly larger, rendering each successive new mount location for that front cup useless. Later RC10s did have better holes drilled for a longitudinal battery mount, but none of them will fit contemporary NiMh round cells or any LiPo pack.
You have to drill and countersink new holes if you want any pack to fit properly today.
Well that stinks. But this chassis is not perfect so I suppose I could drill. How about a custom 6 cell hump pack instead? Or I may come up with a custom velcro strap too. Hmmmm?
Everything needed to be re-drilled, period. Stick packs with the wires out the ends were the worst. Outside of making a 6-cell pack where one cell was higher than the others, there really isn't much option. That layout was never designed into the original RC10, so that's why those holes in the chassis aren't even in the centerline of the car.
Re-drill them, give yourself an extra .125-.200" of space and use a strip of foam in one of the ends to take up the extra space. That way, most every battery option out there will fit properly.
What I did was pushed my battery box all the way forward till its almost touching the servo mount. That way I was able to make a new set of holes instead of one elongated hole. And like what Rouge said just take up the slack with a little piece of foam.
Seems to me the answer is a new molded battery box that keeps the screw locations where they are and just adds that distance to the box. Hmmmm, dremel and plastic welder and I smell a project.
Yes, I have a few of those cut ones that came with various lots, but I think I will try this for something different. After I fail I can always break out the drill
Operation longer stock looking battery cup is in progress. This chassis while not perfect is my best and I could not bring a drill to it. And I was bored at 5AM this morning. I might go crazy when all is done, with a little plastic filler, fine sanding, mix up a paint color that matches the nylon and I am pretty sure I can get this to where you'd never know if you didn't know so to speak.
I took some small zip ties and made some loops out of them - pushed them through the chassis from the bottom (i.e. loops where the batter cup screws are) - used them to anchor a velco strap from a laptop power cord - works perfect and will hold down pretty much any shape battery.
That battery-cup mod is awesome, retains the vintage look and updates it for the modern tech! If it's starting to get that close to the servo mount maybe another non-chassis-drill option could be to drill sideways into the servo-mount post (through the back of the cup)? If you started with servo tape under the battery cup it might be strong enough?
Hey guys, going through my inventory, I found one and a half sets of my shorty battery cups and straps. I ordered another cup so now I have two complete sets for sale. If you're not familiar with these, you can check the thread here...
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Just lowered the price, I want to get rid of these.
$25 + shipping for one set (the slightly discolored set), $27 + shipping for the second. This is almost $10 off from the price at ShapeWays, plus shipping from me will be a few bucks vs. 9 from...
I have a vintage gold pan and have seen many of you that have the battery placement in line with the body - not sideways like in the directions. Does this make a difference ?? Is that set up for racing - off road or what ???
Ive almost fully restored my Team Associated RC10, and was wondering about the nicad battery....
Can i Use a 7.2 stick battery or is there something else I should be looking for?
I dont want to damage the receiver, or the motor, so some expert...
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What kind of electronics are you running? Depending on the answer, you may be able to move up to a Lipo setup, which is sooooo much more fun. I went to Ni-mH which was much better than Ni-Cad but even with a Ni-mH 8.4V vs. a Lipo 7.4V, the Lipo was...
Are there any options for the front battery cup? The stock one works but it's an extremely tight fit. It's also a bit tall and interfering with my hardcase LiPo. I may just get a stock replacement and cut it down but was wondering if there were...
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Thanks.
With the modern hard case LiPos it definitely is not a direct fit. The washer is the obvious solution, I did not try that yet, I am also aware of the need to shorten the cup, BUT I believe the cup balancing on just 2 washers with an ESC on...
I'm missing the bars that slip onto the tops of the battery cups, that hold the pack in place.
I have some white polystyrene sheets thick enough to use as a replacement. Instead of hunting the original parts on eBay, and spend money...
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it only seems right that you're talking about me, being as though i'm the only mod that has said anything to you in your short time here. since that's the case, i can make it so you don't have to deal with me anymore. just say the word.
Please forgive my ignorance, I am a Losi guy.
I have some people asking for a modern battery cup option like I made for the JRX graphite chassis models. One that holds extra wires.
So I got a RC10 Gold Pan. It is an A stamp. I also got a RC10T with...
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They are up for sale now. The Basic model actually weighs a little less than the standard Associated cup with all its parts. Price starts at $7.59 for the Basic.
More info here
Im cleaning up my original rc10 buggy. The battery trays are mounted side to side and i would like to keep it that way so i can run the original mechanical speed control. Problem is none of my stick packs fit. I had a junk 6 cell so i opened it up...
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you would eventually damage the MSC, simply due to the fact that the lipo will likely have a much longer run time, resulting in overheating the resistors. they get smokin' hot running for 4-8 minutes, much longer and the parts will start to degrade.
Is there one? I got the one that was recommended in my thread, and I'm having to make some way to hold it in, because I eventually BUTCHERED my box until there was nothing left but the sides :(
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OK, thank you
I am looking at battery straps now! I like that idea