Hi all, I recently re-discovered an original RC10T kit that my uncle put together in the early 90`s. He assembled it and thats as far as he got, never ran it, never installed electronics. The kit # is 7011(if I remember correctly). Problem is though...
The topic of a gold tub 10T came up years ago, and most (including myself) always thought there was only a black tub/nose/motor plate. This Japanese 7011 Sport kit appears to have the gold parts. :shock: I asked the seller for pics of the nose since...
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Did this ever resurface? Did anyone here get it?
It didn't seem like there was a great deal of interest in the kit here for the asking price. It seemed to be pretty run of the mill except for the factory gold truck nose plate.
Hi, I need info on what would have been correct servo mounts for a #7011 RC10T. Would they have used the white 6336 mounts or a black version or tape, don't think it would be the tape, because my kit has the mechanical speed controller. Thank you...
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It's up to your preference, but they generally were the same color as the rest of the parts
There were some transition where some parts were white and black but I don't know if the trucks were affected as much as the buggies
I have another on of these in my old dragster. Just don't remember the name. Anyone know??
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those black magic motors are no joke. i remember i had a couple, and i also remember writing off two rc12l's and a rc10l with them. it was like putting a v12 in a gokart.
I have an old Novak 4 (not a T4) speed control that is mint that I wanna put in my old Hot Trick car... I don't recall the specs on it.. How many turns can I go down to safely??
Frank
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good points. Thank you sir..
If you are gonna run old batteries like 1200's or 1400's and maybe 1700's a 16 turn should be fine, but if you are going to use newer batteries with 3000+ mah only use a stock motor cuz it'll get quite hot after...
Just got this gem in the mail today. Popped off the wiring cover and discovered this:
And we've been wasting money on speed controls. You could have just hooked the motor straight to the receiver like this!
Can't imagine this worked too well......
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Ummm.....no you can't do that! The white wire is a pulse. Black and red are power and ground. You don't have anything there to control power with. The esc is not just an amplifier, it processes the signal.
Can anyone tell me if the Novak 1 came with heat sinks please? The kind that slip on over the ones molded in the case?
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Heat sinks were an optional part - not needed for 12th scale but needed for 10th off road. Two (black) heat sinks - one longer one for most of the FETs, a smaller one for the single brake FET on the right.
