New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Some coworkers and I have decided that we want to race RC cars, and we are going to have a concrete slab poured big enough for a small oval track. When we get started forming that up I will get some pics.
Our weapons of choice are vintage RC10 pan cars, which we will eventually all outfit with dirt oval bodies.
So far we have several L, L2, and L3 chassis. Some complete, some in progress, and some parts donors.
Since I am the soldering wiz, I've been doing practically all of the wiring on all the cars, but today my first car finally came.
I posted a couple of cellphone pics in the "Off Topic" section, but here are some taken with a slightly better camera:
Lots of work to be done. Tires are junk. Wired in saddle-pack is shot and will give way to a stick pack on the left side. ESC will stay for now, but the servo and receiver will be replaced with the ones from a new Futaba radio set.
Other upgrades will be done as budget allows.
And everything is filty, every single piece needs to be cleaned and/or polished.
Since this came off eBay, someone here may recognize it. If so, I would be interested in whatever you can tell me about the life history of this particular car.
Oh, and I almost forgot . . . I should have a RC10T here tomorrow.
Gotta have something to play with NOW because it may be awhile before we're able to pour the slab.
Our weapons of choice are vintage RC10 pan cars, which we will eventually all outfit with dirt oval bodies.
So far we have several L, L2, and L3 chassis. Some complete, some in progress, and some parts donors.
Since I am the soldering wiz, I've been doing practically all of the wiring on all the cars, but today my first car finally came.
I posted a couple of cellphone pics in the "Off Topic" section, but here are some taken with a slightly better camera:
Lots of work to be done. Tires are junk. Wired in saddle-pack is shot and will give way to a stick pack on the left side. ESC will stay for now, but the servo and receiver will be replaced with the ones from a new Futaba radio set.
Other upgrades will be done as budget allows.
And everything is filty, every single piece needs to be cleaned and/or polished.
Since this came off eBay, someone here may recognize it. If so, I would be interested in whatever you can tell me about the life history of this particular car.
Oh, and I almost forgot . . . I should have a RC10T here tomorrow.
Gotta have something to play with NOW because it may be awhile before we're able to pour the slab.
- PBR Allstar
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Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
it will start with "vintage cars" then someone will get a good deal on an L4, then before you know it, you'll all be running CEFX and KSG cars!
- PBR Allstar
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Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
another thing, If you and you're buddies want good racing, set a motor limit on the deal early on! do something like a speed passion citrix system or something, it's inexpensive and you'll all be equally matched.
Better get the sprayer and the root beer syrup ready for when you get the oval poured!
Better get the sprayer and the root beer syrup ready for when you get the oval poured!
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Jay Dub wrote:Where you from TerryC ? -Jeff
Southeast Georgia. Waycross.
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
When we first start crashing, uh, I mean racing . . .
We will probably find a motor that does well on this track and gravitate toward that. For now everyone's ambitions are way bigger than their wallets or their driving abilities, so it's no holds barred!
When they hit the concrete it will probably bite us in our butts.
Some progress . . .
• Entire chassis cleaned.
• The saddle pack has been been replaced with battery cups on the left.
• Stock motor has been replaced with a 13x2 Modified. (hey, I had it!)
• The speed controller and receiver are placed where they will go, but are just stuck down temporarily. Either or both could be swapped out before it's over.
• Ball differential disassembled, cleaned, inspected, lubed, reassembled, and adjusted.
• New rear tires. Front tires are coming.
Working forward, front end next.
Nothing will be wired until the last component is mounted.
We will probably find a motor that does well on this track and gravitate toward that. For now everyone's ambitions are way bigger than their wallets or their driving abilities, so it's no holds barred!
When they hit the concrete it will probably bite us in our butts.
Some progress . . .
• Entire chassis cleaned.
• The saddle pack has been been replaced with battery cups on the left.
• Stock motor has been replaced with a 13x2 Modified. (hey, I had it!)
• The speed controller and receiver are placed where they will go, but are just stuck down temporarily. Either or both could be swapped out before it's over.
• Ball differential disassembled, cleaned, inspected, lubed, reassembled, and adjusted.
• New rear tires. Front tires are coming.
Working forward, front end next.
Nothing will be wired until the last component is mounted.
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Got outbid on a 8400 kit (probably someone here) but I did trade into this used front end.
The turnbuckles and hinge pins had some surface rust (poor storage), but they cleaned up good enough and will eventually be replaced anyway.
It has been upgraded with on-center steering blocks and axles, and has not been mounted since then.
The servo is just sitting there for now, I still need to drill the holes for the mounting blocks . . .
The turnbuckles and hinge pins had some surface rust (poor storage), but they cleaned up good enough and will eventually be replaced anyway.
It has been upgraded with on-center steering blocks and axles, and has not been mounted since then.
The servo is just sitting there for now, I still need to drill the holes for the mounting blocks . . .
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Still need the new front wheels/tires and bearings (ordered), a bumper, and battery tube.
And a dirt oval body, but that can wait awhile. The body I have will do for now.
7-Cell battery NiMH pack in the trays and the motor wired, servo mounts installed and servo mounted.
I may change some things later, but for now I'm keeping the Novak ESC.
I want to run it some before I make any more changes.
But it's coming along.
And a dirt oval body, but that can wait awhile. The body I have will do for now.
7-Cell battery NiMH pack in the trays and the motor wired, servo mounts installed and servo mounted.
I may change some things later, but for now I'm keeping the Novak ESC.
I want to run it some before I make any more changes.
But it's coming along.
- drbelleville
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Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Nice you are off to a great start. Looks very clean. Hope you have a blast running it as well.
-Maurice
-Maurice
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Looks great man! What kind of dirt oval body are you planning on using?
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
The bodies so far are all McCallister "Knoxville" model. Since there are already three cars that are identical except for paint/decals, I would like mine to be a little different from the others.
That will be one of the last things I buy so I have a little time to decide. Because it's subject to get dinged a few times, I'm going to run the body I have until I'm comfortable driving the car.
It's not a bad body in its own right, the photos don't really do it justice. It just doesn't fit into our program.
That will be one of the last things I buy so I have a little time to decide. Because it's subject to get dinged a few times, I'm going to run the body I have until I'm comfortable driving the car.
It's not a bad body in its own right, the photos don't really do it justice. It just doesn't fit into our program.
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
Points to all who "get" this photo . . .
(more to come, after the batteries charge )
(more to come, after the batteries charge )
- drbelleville
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Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
? Some tire Balancing ? or spacing the rim ?TerryC wrote:Points to all who "get" this photo . . .
(more to come, after the batteries charge )
The tape reminds me of the thin lead tape you could get to balance your wheels - cut to size - was great stuff <-
Re: New guy with an old car (RC10L) . . .
It's reflective tape.
It is there for this to read . . .
I wanted to do some informal rpm measurements whilst tinkering . . .
So here are the details:
Orion Method R 13x2 (with the red aluminum endbell) through a vintage Novak 410-M5 ESC
25-tooth 64P pinion
115-tooth 64P spur
New (only about a half-dozen charges) ONYX 7-cell NiNH 3000 mAh pack - 9.5v before tests, 9.3v after.
Used Ripmax "Hi-Energy" 6-cell NiMH 3300 mAh (of undertermined age) - 8.1v before tests, 7.9 after.
What a difference a cell makes!
Testing consisted of a 10 second warm-up run, then two 30 second full-throttle runs on the tach, for each pack.
3 minute shutdown between runs.
Speed is sampled by the tach every 0.8 seconds
8-cell pack:
Maximum rpm = 9341
Average rpm = 9308
7-cel pack:
Maximum rpm = 7982
Average rpm = 7948
These readings actually excede the advertised rpm rating for this motor, but not after adjusting these figures down to 7.2 volts.
-------
drbelleville: I have some of that lead tape on my old wheels, but it's stuck in the back side of the wheel, out of sight. The photo does really not show the reflectiveness of the IR tape adequately. I didn't see the resemblance until you mentioned it, but in a photo they do look similar.
It is there for this to read . . .
I wanted to do some informal rpm measurements whilst tinkering . . .
So here are the details:
Orion Method R 13x2 (with the red aluminum endbell) through a vintage Novak 410-M5 ESC
25-tooth 64P pinion
115-tooth 64P spur
New (only about a half-dozen charges) ONYX 7-cell NiNH 3000 mAh pack - 9.5v before tests, 9.3v after.
Used Ripmax "Hi-Energy" 6-cell NiMH 3300 mAh (of undertermined age) - 8.1v before tests, 7.9 after.
What a difference a cell makes!
Testing consisted of a 10 second warm-up run, then two 30 second full-throttle runs on the tach, for each pack.
3 minute shutdown between runs.
Speed is sampled by the tach every 0.8 seconds
8-cell pack:
Maximum rpm = 9341
Average rpm = 9308
7-cel pack:
Maximum rpm = 7982
Average rpm = 7948
These readings actually excede the advertised rpm rating for this motor, but not after adjusting these figures down to 7.2 volts.
-------
drbelleville: I have some of that lead tape on my old wheels, but it's stuck in the back side of the wheel, out of sight. The photo does really not show the reflectiveness of the IR tape adequately. I didn't see the resemblance until you mentioned it, but in a photo they do look similar.
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