Race Rustler build
Race Rustler build
Hello all,
After reading about the Traxxas SRT, I wanted to build my Rustler into something raceworthy, combining the best parts of the stock Rustler, the SRT, and Jang's Ultimate Rustler build. I mostly know what I'm going to do, but I still have a few questions.
Attached I have some pictures of my starting point. It's only a few years old. Some parts are a little worn, but it's reasonably well maintained. It has RPM arms and front bumper, a Pro-line Stampede body, Trenchers all around, a Velineon with a lot of miles on it, and an SRT fiberglass front shock tower. It's front hubs are totally shot- all the plastic is worn out, the axles are grooved because I waited too long to get wheel bearings, and the kingpins have been unbent several times.
Obviously, they will need replacement. I had it narrowed down to either the stock setup with aluminum castors and rpm carriers, or a Nitro Rustler setup. Then the Pro-line front hub kit came out, and now I'm not sure.
For the Nitro Rustler/SRT front hub setup, Jang recommended the 25-degree blocks for better steering. Projekt r/c reccomended the 30-degree castors for better durability. Some people said that they were all too fragile and you had to get aluminum ones, which are only avaliable in 30 degrees. Lastly, does drilling out the stock arm for the beefier hinge pins make it fragile? Does anyone have experience with Nitro Rusty front spindles?
If you got here, thank you. Updates (and more questions) to come.
After reading about the Traxxas SRT, I wanted to build my Rustler into something raceworthy, combining the best parts of the stock Rustler, the SRT, and Jang's Ultimate Rustler build. I mostly know what I'm going to do, but I still have a few questions.
Attached I have some pictures of my starting point. It's only a few years old. Some parts are a little worn, but it's reasonably well maintained. It has RPM arms and front bumper, a Pro-line Stampede body, Trenchers all around, a Velineon with a lot of miles on it, and an SRT fiberglass front shock tower. It's front hubs are totally shot- all the plastic is worn out, the axles are grooved because I waited too long to get wheel bearings, and the kingpins have been unbent several times.
Obviously, they will need replacement. I had it narrowed down to either the stock setup with aluminum castors and rpm carriers, or a Nitro Rustler setup. Then the Pro-line front hub kit came out, and now I'm not sure.
For the Nitro Rustler/SRT front hub setup, Jang recommended the 25-degree blocks for better steering. Projekt r/c reccomended the 30-degree castors for better durability. Some people said that they were all too fragile and you had to get aluminum ones, which are only avaliable in 30 degrees. Lastly, does drilling out the stock arm for the beefier hinge pins make it fragile? Does anyone have experience with Nitro Rusty front spindles?
If you got here, thank you. Updates (and more questions) to come.
- Attachments
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- rustler close up 1.jpg (24.98 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
- rustler close up 1.jpg (24.98 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
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- Rustler close up 2.jpg (26.63 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
- Rustler close up 2.jpg (26.63 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
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- Rustler close up 3.jpg (23.08 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
- Rustler close up 3.jpg (23.08 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
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- rustler close up 4.jpg (23.73 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
- rustler close up 4.jpg (23.73 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
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- rustler close up 5.jpg (32.55 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
- rustler close up 5.jpg (32.55 KiB) Viewed 4606 times
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
- Seabass
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Re: Race Rustler build
I bet you had a blast with that based off the description you just gave.
I would say you will be fine without aluminum castors. I am sure you didn't have aluminum castor blocks on that car when you were running it, did you ever break one? I would say the 25 degree castors will be plenty durable in plastic, most people run plastic castors on all the other types of cars.
I see you have bent hinge pins before, under what type of driving? I would say if you are looking at getting into racing, as long as you are not running into the wall full throttle, you will be fine without having larger hinge pins. Just pick up some new hinge pins during your build and replace the one you have had to straighten. Trying to find larger hinge pins will only create bigger problems for you down the road. You will need to drill your arms and bulkheads. If you ever have to replace a part at the track, you will need your tools to redrill the new part to fit your larger hinge pins.
I don't have much experience with the Traxxas stuff so i can;t help much there.
Good luck with your project.
I would say you will be fine without aluminum castors. I am sure you didn't have aluminum castor blocks on that car when you were running it, did you ever break one? I would say the 25 degree castors will be plenty durable in plastic, most people run plastic castors on all the other types of cars.
I see you have bent hinge pins before, under what type of driving? I would say if you are looking at getting into racing, as long as you are not running into the wall full throttle, you will be fine without having larger hinge pins. Just pick up some new hinge pins during your build and replace the one you have had to straighten. Trying to find larger hinge pins will only create bigger problems for you down the road. You will need to drill your arms and bulkheads. If you ever have to replace a part at the track, you will need your tools to redrill the new part to fit your larger hinge pins.
I don't have much experience with the Traxxas stuff so i can;t help much there.
Good luck with your project.
Re: Race Rustler build
Thanks for the reply. Bending kingpins is a known problem on Traxxas 2wd trucks with live front axles. The kingpins bend even in minor crashes, the other hinge pins don't bend without hitting something pretty hard. The only reason I was looking to drill out the hinge pin hole was to allow the installation of Nitro Rustler hubs, which I've heard improve steering. I'd hoped one of the SRT owners on the board had an electric Rustler on hand they could compare it too.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
I ran the Rustler in it's first race today. I hadn't been planning on it, but there was dirt oval at my lhs. Exactly as shown plus 4-tec rear carriers. Novice class was an absolute hack- fest. I broke my srt front shock tower and my 4-tec rear hub carriers. I got first in both heats and last in the A Main because that was when the hub carrier broke. It barely limped to the end.
My question: what to replace the shock tower with? Any thoughts?
Edit: I'll probably go with the RPM nitro rustler shock tower. Crashes happen, and if your truck drives away undamaged, you already have an advantage.
My question: what to replace the shock tower with? Any thoughts?
Edit: I'll probably go with the RPM nitro rustler shock tower. Crashes happen, and if your truck drives away undamaged, you already have an advantage.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
- klavy69
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Re: Race Rustler build
way back when I broke my first SRT front shock tower I bought longer screws and doubled up my front shock tower. Ran it that way til I learned to drive good enuf that I didn't have to worry about it anymore. Held up pretty good anyway. They still make them so it would be easy to do it that way...85Edinger wrote:My question: what to replace the shock tower with? Any thoughts?
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
Re: Race Rustler build
Good idea, but two fiberglass towers cost as much as a graphite tower or two rpm towers. I bought the fiberglass tower to eliminate flex, but I'm realizing that crash survival requires flex. The stock tower was just plain flimsy. I'd like something that stays stiff under normal use, but bends in crashes.
Is graphite more durable than fiberglass? I'm guessing two fiberglass towers together should be pretty much indestructible, but how would it compare to graphite?
Is graphite more durable than fiberglass? I'm guessing two fiberglass towers together should be pretty much indestructible, but how would it compare to graphite?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
are you racing it with those tires on it?
if so, ditch them. they are heavy as heck.
regular stadium truck tires would be much better.
can't help with much else, i've never owned a traxxas.
if so, ditch them. they are heavy as heck.
regular stadium truck tires would be much better.
can't help with much else, i've never owned a traxxas.
Re: Race Rustler build
I'm going to get some 2.2 st tires eventually. Right now, it's my bash truck. I hadn't planned to race it yet.
It's going to be a while before I can get to a proper off road track. They're all closed for the winter.
It's going to be a while before I can get to a proper off road track. They're all closed for the winter.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
- klavy69
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Re: Race Rustler build
correct, it is an expensive fix but once its was fixed it didn't cost anything again so in the long run it was actually cheaper.
personally I've never run a rustler for more than a battery pack before selling it but on my SRT I only used the graphites. Don't know if the fiberglass is better or not in that instance. I do know that traxxas was after weight savings hence the thinner chassis plates, towers, etc. on the trx3 and the srt. They also pry didn't mind having to sell replacement towers
. As far as the RPM front shock tower the only thing I have heard locally about them is they weren't liked in the 'racing scene' since they flexed so much it made for an unpredictable steering situation. Bashers have loved them though...they don't break too easily.
I think harry697 might have some helpful advice on this whenever he wanders back to the board and sees it though. I'm thinkin he was part of a 'race rustler' topic on the traxxas forums but can't quite remember.
Todd
personally I've never run a rustler for more than a battery pack before selling it but on my SRT I only used the graphites. Don't know if the fiberglass is better or not in that instance. I do know that traxxas was after weight savings hence the thinner chassis plates, towers, etc. on the trx3 and the srt. They also pry didn't mind having to sell replacement towers

I think harry697 might have some helpful advice on this whenever he wanders back to the board and sees it though. I'm thinkin he was part of a 'race rustler' topic on the traxxas forums but can't quite remember.
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
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Re: Race Rustler build
klavy69 wrote:
I think harry697 might have some helpful advice on this whenever he wanders back to the board and sees it though. I'm thinkin he was part of a 'race rustler' topic on the traxxas forums but can't quite remember.
Please be patient while harry697 removes his head from his ass and thinks of something useful to add to the topic.

- klavy69
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Re: Race Rustler build


Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
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Re: Race Rustler build
Here's all I have at the moment:

I actually acquired this truck from the original owner in a buy-out deal a couple years ago. It's just a carcass at this point. Maybe one day I'll do something with it. Give me a chance to read through this thread and also re-visit the build thread because a lot of the details have gotten fuzzy since 2008.

I actually acquired this truck from the original owner in a buy-out deal a couple years ago. It's just a carcass at this point. Maybe one day I'll do something with it. Give me a chance to read through this thread and also re-visit the build thread because a lot of the details have gotten fuzzy since 2008.
Re: Race Rustler build
Huh? Is that an srt with a plastic motor mount?
The fiberglass shock tower has one major advantage over the graphite one: you can still buy it.
The fiberglass shock tower has one major advantage over the graphite one: you can still buy it.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
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Re: Race Rustler build
85Edinger wrote:Huh? Is that an srt with a plastic motor mount?
The fiberglass shock tower has one major advantage over the graphite one: you can still buy it.
No, that was a custom built Rustler race truck. Loosely based on the SRT chassis, but none of the parts, with maybe the exception of front tower and a-arms, are from an SRT.
Re: Race Rustler build
Does it have the stock hex hubs? I'm still trying to decide between those and the nitro spindles.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
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