WOISO "what's old is still old"!

[cole455]

"Whats old is still old" After joining and learning I shouldn't drive my 94 worlds, I picked up a couple beaters off ebay to play around with. The first just showed up. It's a beater b stamp with manual speed control, 6 gear tranny and a slot machine 2. From my parts stash I added some rear shocks, a Novak electronic speed control and a speed gems serpentine so I could test the old gal out. Very happy so far; I've run about 10 packs through it and should be an excellent runner. One thing though, what do I need to do regarding battery packs? They've gotten slightly longer than they used to be and no longer fit in any of my holders. The battery sits almost flush with the steering servo now and short of cutting holes in the chassis for velcro straps, it appears there's no way to adequately secure the new packs.

[trek]

I've been drilling 2 new holes about 1/4 in or so ahead of the real battery cup holes (and depending on the chassis more centered than the original holes) and just use the stock battery cup (just moved forward). To get a lipo battery in I have done the same, but also have to cut the bottom out of the rear bulkhead. It sounds that is what AE is doing on the re-re to make it lipo compatible.

[markbt73]

Yeah, since that one already has "speed holes" in the side, I guess no one will howl too much if you drill holes to move the battery cup forward.

Or... What I did with my runner is cut the front wall off the battery cup, ditch the rear servo mount, trim the ears off the servo, and mount it with tape. Then I added some stick-on foam insulation tape (like the kind used for weatherstripping) to the back end of the servo to fill up any gap and act as a cushion.

Like this (photo taken before I added the foam tape):

[delsami]

as TREK said, I also just drill 2 holes and move the cup forward. After doing so, I still have my servo mounted with 2 servo mounts. markbt73 thats tight in there!

[DerbyDan]

as TREK said, I also just drill 2 holes and move the cup forward. After doing so, I still have my servo mounted with 2 servo mounts. markbt73 thats tight in there!

The base of the AE battery cups provides plenty of surface area to adequately stick the cup to the chassis in the new position using a good quality foam double sided tape e.g 3M VHB - this is what I have done & seems to work well whilst saving having to drill extra holes in the chassis

[trek]

Never thought of the tape. That seems like a good option if you don't want to drill holes.

[cole455]

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I went ahead and drilled the chassis, moved the cup forward, and cut the tabs off the rear of the steering servo. If this weren't a beater with "speed holes" added I'd just use servo tape, but it is what it is. Worked out well, even without the battery strap it still firmly holds the battery in place...