I know... what's old is new is old

[spydur23]

Since I joined this forum I've been obsessed with everyone's WOIN builds. A couple weeks ago I picked up a lot that included a tq10 (which I practically GAVE away on an ebay auction), and a graphite. Well to say the least the previous owner was obviously very talented in the spray paint department!

[spydur23]

So I got busy trying to strip all of the silver and red spray paint. Had pretty good luck on all the vinyl, only to find a Technicolor nightmare underneath. All the white parts were dyed purple, pink, and blue! I wasn't really interested in dying everything black and putting it back together original, so I just sold most of the parts and trashed the really messed up ones. But I still had this chassis. After sanding, the finish was pretty dull, and had none of the original texture. Not to mention all the extra holes that it has.

[spydur23]

I have a Gisi graphite with a full RPM worlds conversion, but its a shelfer. So I decided to finally get going on my own WOIN with this poor old graphite as my basis. Dug around and found some parts and started bolting stuff together. And of course buying more new stuff off ebay. I think its funny, I could've bought a new 22 or b4.2 for what ive spent already, but what's the fun in that?

[spydur23]

Here's a couple more pics after I got all the new stuff on last night. I am having a problem with clearance on the back hubs. My setup is b44 cva's, losi hubs, b4 wheel spacers. I see in other's builds that they use custom works or kranzels spacers to get more width. But I could barely get the drive pin in with the b4 hubs. Is there something i'm missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I suppose I could just modify the losi hubs by cutting the first hole off.

[scr8p]

Use the custom works .125 wheel spacer. It just slides on, them put the wheel on. Probably gonna need a low profile 8-32 nut too.

[spydur23]

Ok thanks!

[scr8p]

any particular reason why didn't you alter the front kickup to use the 10t bulkhead, instead of cutting it off and going with a truck nose plate?

[slow_jun]

I was about to ask the question...

[spydur23]

Well, the idea was to try both short and long wheelbase options once I get it running. The chassis is really kind of a mess. I'm using it temporarily until I either make a new cf chassis, or cut and mill a tub. I was looking at your graphite build scr8p, I like how you did that. If this chassis would have been in better condition, I prob wouldn't have cut it at all!

[slow_jun]

can you post some close up pics where you cut the CF? thanks.

[spydur23]

Here's one. I just cut it to be the same as a tub would be. You can see one of the many random holes that were in this chassis, too. Been trying to source cf plate. I think I'm gonna try to do a new chassis, trans brace, shock towers, and battery strap. Any advice for working with this material would be greatly appreciated. Also does 2.5 mm sound okay for the cf? Also you can see the purple rpm ball cups in this pic. Those will not be staying! Just waiting on my blue ft turnbuckles and white ball cups to arrive. Still trying to decide on a body too. I put the truck bumper on there just to be different. I wasn't sure how it would look with the body mounted. I'm a 10t guy though, so i'm digging the truckish look with the shock towers, bumper etc.

[slotcarrod]

I like that you took a leap and cut the chassis! I think it will help with giving the chassis a little flex for better traction on the front! Plus it looks neat as hell!

[popboy905]

interesting how you mounted the front tower or flipped the front bulk head. Can you take a pic of that?

[spydur23]

Yeah heres a couple pics. All I did was flip the bulkhead. I had to remove some material from the chassis tube mounting points to get them on there. I also put the brace on the body post mounting holes, as I see a lot of people do. Not sure how much purpose that serves, but I really don't like unused holes lol. I took the ball bearing steering off of an old losi. the black piece is straight across, unlike the other ones ive seen that are swept back on the ends. I would have to put washers/spacers underneath the bellcracks to mount the black piece on the bottom. So I tried it like this. The ball studs on both ends are mounted upside down. It doesn't seem to be causing any kind of problem with the geometry or clearance of any of the components. Also you'll notice I used a spacer on the camber links to try and keep the turnbuckle at a more parallel angle with the arm. Not sure how all this is gonna perform, but it looks cool lol.

[spydur23]

Just an update. My buggy is finally almost done. Just gotta get a motor and esc and she'll be ready! Here's some pics after building was done. Took forever for a certain Fort Wayne, Indiana hobby shop to ship the last few pieces, buy they finally made it.