Custom CE Manual Paint...
Custom CE Manual Paint...
Hey guys, been away for a while working like mad, but was able to have some fun with body paint. This one is based on CE the manual art. I wanted to try this style of masking while I have a pile of clear bodies waiting for paint. The buggy itself is the same one I use to model the Masami body on. It's not finished yet, still needs wing paint, stickers, and window nets. It has some painters flaws but I still love it. Will post more progress pics as I go, but let me know what you think. Enjoy!
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- Location: Schwenksville, PA
Re: Custom CE Manual Paint...
Great job. I have a few questions:
1. Do you use liquid mask, masking tape or pre-cut vinyl paint mask
2. How did you do the splatter effect
3. Do you use water or lacquer based paints?
1. Do you use liquid mask, masking tape or pre-cut vinyl paint mask
2. How did you do the splatter effect
3. Do you use water or lacquer based paints?
Re: Custom CE Manual Paint...
Thanks
1. Do you use liquid mask, masking tape or pre-cut vinyl paint mask
plotted / cut vinyl masks that I design and cut, along with adding strips of vinyl here and there to fix trouble areas. i stopped worrying about paint mistakes, where paint would seep through under masks. instead i use different size q-tips and cleaning brushes with solvents to fix those mistakes after each color is sprayed. sometimes i use a dull exacto blade to scratch remove excess paint on straight lines. its easier for me to improv each body and not really plan anything except for the colors. plus i can hide alot of mistakes with stickers. i use 2 different vinyls, one is low tact and one is regular tact. the lesser tact doesnt stick as strong so its good for replacing until you get it on in the right position, but its not as good of a sealer. the higher tact vinyl really seals the edge nicely. sometimes i wet the higher tact vinyl so that i can play around with placement easier. vinyl stretches too, which is good in some cases around curves, but it can ruin the mask or sticker if it stretches out of shape.
2. How did you do the splatter effect
i use a few different size and length hair paint brushes, and sometimes a toothbrush (not a used one from toothpaste). to minimize splatting outside of the body, i directionally tap the brushes, like as if you were tapping ash from a cig or joint i use my thumb for the tooth brush. i use faskolor airbrush paint for that. i try to fade the splatts into an actual spray fade, larger splatts towards the heavier fade, more paint on the brush for that. its really just a crap shoot, but try not to make a mistake because you really cant wipe it clean and start over. you can get a light non directional splatt from tapping an airbrush trigger as well, depending on the size of your needle. im not a pro, no where near so im not that familiar with all the techniques, just learning as i go.
3. Do you use water or lacquer based paints?
faskolor water based airbrush paint for splatts, and a mix of the same and lexan rattle can spray for the rest of the body. i always back faskolor with rattle can white. i use faskcolor rattle can mirror chrome, but it takes practice to get chrome to come out properly. if you underspray it, you will see the backing black almost like a gritty dirt, which is cool sometimes. if you over spray it, you get like a hyper silver.
1. Do you use liquid mask, masking tape or pre-cut vinyl paint mask
plotted / cut vinyl masks that I design and cut, along with adding strips of vinyl here and there to fix trouble areas. i stopped worrying about paint mistakes, where paint would seep through under masks. instead i use different size q-tips and cleaning brushes with solvents to fix those mistakes after each color is sprayed. sometimes i use a dull exacto blade to scratch remove excess paint on straight lines. its easier for me to improv each body and not really plan anything except for the colors. plus i can hide alot of mistakes with stickers. i use 2 different vinyls, one is low tact and one is regular tact. the lesser tact doesnt stick as strong so its good for replacing until you get it on in the right position, but its not as good of a sealer. the higher tact vinyl really seals the edge nicely. sometimes i wet the higher tact vinyl so that i can play around with placement easier. vinyl stretches too, which is good in some cases around curves, but it can ruin the mask or sticker if it stretches out of shape.
2. How did you do the splatter effect
i use a few different size and length hair paint brushes, and sometimes a toothbrush (not a used one from toothpaste). to minimize splatting outside of the body, i directionally tap the brushes, like as if you were tapping ash from a cig or joint i use my thumb for the tooth brush. i use faskolor airbrush paint for that. i try to fade the splatts into an actual spray fade, larger splatts towards the heavier fade, more paint on the brush for that. its really just a crap shoot, but try not to make a mistake because you really cant wipe it clean and start over. you can get a light non directional splatt from tapping an airbrush trigger as well, depending on the size of your needle. im not a pro, no where near so im not that familiar with all the techniques, just learning as i go.
3. Do you use water or lacquer based paints?
faskolor water based airbrush paint for splatts, and a mix of the same and lexan rattle can spray for the rest of the body. i always back faskolor with rattle can white. i use faskcolor rattle can mirror chrome, but it takes practice to get chrome to come out properly. if you underspray it, you will see the backing black almost like a gritty dirt, which is cool sometimes. if you over spray it, you get like a hyper silver.
Re: Custom CE Manual Paint...
Matched the wing paint to the rear of the body, what a pain in the a$$... Working on some more stickers when I get some free time, then the nets, then to smooth sand the edges. Might go with TQ-71 front ribs, not sure yet.
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