The last thing I did on the day of the last update was to get started with the shocks:
I'm not very fond of the updated design on these, particularly the way the o-rings are "held" into the bottom cartridge. On most of Kyosho's other modern shock designs there is a c-clip holding the bottom cartridge together, or the bottom cartridge is screwed shut. Here there is a mere plastic part holding the o-rings in position, and I can see how with wear and tear the o-rings will slip out of the bottom cartridge and the shock will bleed itself out all over the suspension. I had a lot of trouble getting the same amount of rebound on all four shocks, too, and it's pretty much impossible to fill these without getting shock oil all over your hands.
As an aside, use locktite on all of the steering links, or they may spontaneously disassemble. Also, workign on this car to for example get access to the steering when something like that happens is a royal pain in the behind.
Then it was time to wait for my new parts to arrive, which did yesterday:
First I attached the lower tray:
Getting this to click into place took way too much force, I had to resort to pliers to push the last bit into place, as I could not exercise enough force by hand. The problem are the countersunk holes at the rear plus the part being a very tight fit in general.
Hard front mount comparison with stock part:
It also comes with the proper 8 mm screws.
Upper link mounts comparison:
continued next post...
Javelin rere build
- EvolutionRevolution
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1495
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:24 pm
- Location: Netherlands
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- EvolutionRevolution
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1495
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:24 pm
- Location: Netherlands
- Has thanked: 20 times
- Been thanked: 36 times
Re: Javelin rere build
Parts needed for the front when using universals (note: universal spacer shown in wrong location, see later):
Assembled front end:
But!
The universals come with a spacer. According to Kyosho, on the Optima and Javelin (but not Turbo Optima) this spacer should be placed on the outside of the uprights. This results in the problem shown above, the inner part of the universal does not go into the diff outdrive far enough.
The same problem exists at the rear:
So instead of what Kyosho says in their instructions, put the spacer on the inside of the uprights, like for the Turbo Optima.
The rear end also had an additional problem, namely that the universal spacer provided is too thick to be able to still attach the drive hex (the pin can't be inserted). It's 0.75 mm thick, while the axle needs to be spaced 0.6 mm. With proper shimming everything fits together fine:
I then finished the assembly of the shocks:
More issues here, the lower spring perch doesn't fit onto the eyelet properly unless you spread it out with some pliers while putting it in place. I also hope the upper spring perches won't suffer the same fate as on the vintage shocks, where they often end up splitting.
Attached to the car:
Assembled front end:
But!
The universals come with a spacer. According to Kyosho, on the Optima and Javelin (but not Turbo Optima) this spacer should be placed on the outside of the uprights. This results in the problem shown above, the inner part of the universal does not go into the diff outdrive far enough.
The same problem exists at the rear:
So instead of what Kyosho says in their instructions, put the spacer on the inside of the uprights, like for the Turbo Optima.
The rear end also had an additional problem, namely that the universal spacer provided is too thick to be able to still attach the drive hex (the pin can't be inserted). It's 0.75 mm thick, while the axle needs to be spaced 0.6 mm. With proper shimming everything fits together fine:
I then finished the assembly of the shocks:
More issues here, the lower spring perch doesn't fit onto the eyelet properly unless you spread it out with some pliers while putting it in place. I also hope the upper spring perches won't suffer the same fate as on the vintage shocks, where they often end up splitting.
Attached to the car:
- EvolutionRevolution
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1495
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:24 pm
- Location: Netherlands
- Has thanked: 20 times
- Been thanked: 36 times
Re: Javelin rere build
I then added the alloy side guards:
I spent some of the time I was waiting for the additional parts on decorating the body. I didn't go for box art:
I used some bottles Pactra and Tamiya lexan paints on the interior, and did not forget to remove the protective film before applying the stickers. I had to recut some stickers and apply them in parts to get everything to fit. I still have to finish the driver helmet.
After finishing these and finishing most of the assembly of the chassis, I attached the rear cage:
With single screw holding both the swing bar and front part of rear cage in place.
It's starting to look complete:
This weekend I will have a look at what electronics I can find for it, and whether the servo works.
I spent some of the time I was waiting for the additional parts on decorating the body. I didn't go for box art:
I used some bottles Pactra and Tamiya lexan paints on the interior, and did not forget to remove the protective film before applying the stickers. I had to recut some stickers and apply them in parts to get everything to fit. I still have to finish the driver helmet.
After finishing these and finishing most of the assembly of the chassis, I attached the rear cage:
With single screw holding both the swing bar and front part of rear cage in place.
It's starting to look complete:
This weekend I will have a look at what electronics I can find for it, and whether the servo works.
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