RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

scrap

Re the different chassis hole position - did you work that out from the photos or had it been mentioned/detailed on an interview?

Random Question

Does anyone have a milled out motor plate like the Kinwald one - that they would be prepared to part with? I have a JConcepts one but would love to get a retro looking one.

As usual - brilliant build

How did you find out about the intricate chassis detail at the motor plate?

Worlds Re-Re White A-Arms front and rear (front trimmed to fit larger shocks) JConcepts nose brace tubes Lunsford retro turnbuckles B4 carbon fibre battery brace with JConcepts thumb screws JConcepts motor plate, 6565 and 6570 idler and gearbox case First time I have ever trimmed a tub! image.jpg i...

Thanks

Nice buggy. I have not made it to the track with my re-re worlds.

For my education - what body is that?

Re Stainless screws

Have you bought the packs offered on line? Or are you bulk buying individual screws?

Are all stainless sets cross head like you have used or a hex head screw?

Why did you decide to keep the motor guard and therefore the bracing?

I can understand the logic with a tub chassis but less so with a graphite?

In my opinion it is worth replacing the case and idler.

Judging by the stories on here my re-re stealth was one of the better gearboxes. However, when I replaced the case and idler it was considerably smoother.

Re black arms - I just prefer the look of white a-arms hence my request

I finally managed to get hold of a set of white front a-arms for my Worlds Re-Re.

However, the a-arms bind/rub with the worlds re-re shock rod end. The space for the bottom of the shocks is marginally larger on black a-arms (1mm bigger?)

What solutions have others used?

Thank you

All

Thank you

What size nut driver for the Worlda Re-Re for the front and rear wheel nuts?

Which nuts are used on the rear suspension mounts - as per Brian Kinwald’s Worlds Car

Thanks