RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

At those temperatures on the electronics, you definitely could gear up a few teeth 22t-25t should keep you in a safe temp range and get you over 40mph.

What you can do to get more speed will depend on how long you drive it, and what your esc/motor temperature's are when your done running. Whether your just doing a quick speed run and then stopping, or driving around at speed for awhile or until the batter dies, once your done I would check your tem...

That'll be an awesome build. I've built a few myself, and like them so much, I ended up building the Truck version as well. Great quality, and run nice on track too.

I guess the first thing I would like to happen, is to make parts for the cars (where possible) to have indicators to where it is known that it is a new part. That could either be markings, color shades, material, etc., this way it would not create the issue of re-sellers trying to scam people or lie...

Definitely an interesting topic. I tend to agree with GoMachV, In my mind the way I've always thought about or explained it was whatever the brand of the chassis is on the car is what I would call it even if all other surrounding parts are from other company. An RC10 with JC Racing parts for example.

I would like to start seeing all the plastic parts come in black as well. With the DS re-re they've already produced a handful of the parts in black, they just haven't come available for sale individually yet. Also, option parts would be nice to see. Different toe rear hubs, different caster blocks....

Its a brilliantly designed car. Never had an original, but I have the re-re and its seen a fair amount of track time on carpet with a brushless 13.5t motor and it is still running strong, and goes great around the track.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 09, 2024 12:03 pm I was going to do a shelf build on mine but I think im going to build a racer/runner out of it with a dragon punch rc composite craft replica chassis. I'm not much of a truck guy.

That is the next build on my list. Dan is doing some awesome stuff over at Dragon Punch

I have raced as long as I have been in the hobby. Racing is actually what got me hooked into RC cars. I did a bit of cart racing when I was young and I have always loved racing and motorsports since I was a kid, and I'm sure like most of us that wanted to be professional race car drivers the cost of...

RC10 Factory Works Ten4.1 Conversion RC10T Classic RC10 40th Anniversary

My guess is the battery is done for. The cells have probably deteriorated or built up a lot of resistance, especially if they 2+ years old. I've seen a lot of batteries over the years that look normal, have matching cells, and charge fine but when you go to run them either die out quick like your de...

Figured this would be a good thread to post this. I had a friend who built the 40th and ran it on our track a few times. He put a clear chassis protector on it to try and save the chassis. He then later went to remove it from the chassis after it was a bit worn and a huge chunk of anodizing came off...

I agree its hard to make the decision to run such a clean chassis, but I say go for it. That's what they were made for. I usually just run the JConcepts #1155 clear chassis protector and do double the thickness in the skid areas on my chassis that are clean it keeps them nice.

Thanks, and thanks for the info. I had to put my poker face on when the car walked through the door with those wheels on it, as I haven't seen those specific wheels myself in person up until that point.

with some cleaning/ light polishing I should be able to get them back to looking almost new.

So I just picked up a A stamp car, and it had these wheels on it. I believe they are tecnacraft? If not please let me know, but if they are my question is were they originally sold with the aluminum style knock off shown in the picture? Also, does anyone know off the top of their head what the date ...