RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I'm building an RC10T2 for vintage racing and I would like to run original-style dished yellow wheels. I've been running hex rears while getting it setup but I decided I really hate the appearance of non-dish wheels on old trucks. Trouble is the yellow rears for the 3/16" axles (7803Y) have got...

Thanks for the responses guys. I ended up buying a set for the CW GBX. The shortness of the rere CVD's always bugged me. I had them pop out at least half a dozen times before I limited droop to prevent it. Now that they are discontinued (WHY?!?) they are also getting somewhat hard to find unless you...

Do the rere worlds CVA's fit the B2? Are there other options?

I would really like to upgrade from the u-joints for vintage racing, but cannot find a MIP kit available for the B2 anywhere.

Dr1ven wrote:Will the Associated 7215 shock tower for T2/GT work for the conversion?

You will need a custom tower for buggy shocks. The printed template is for cutting your own for .71 shocks. GoMachV sells .71 or .89 custom towers pre-made.
Link:

Niki wrote:http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=38684

whats the whole thing about the long arms and such? what improvements in performance does it acutally have? but also, i do question the durability of shapeways stuff. It's hard to explain, but it if you've raced an RC10 you know it has some terminal push and other handling quirks which can be somew...

Thanks, added.

I have completed my NIX10M aluminum chassis racer and now I need to buy a new body for it. With all the re-releases and the tbg offerings out there, some bodies fit/look better than others. I have collected the links to a few people's pictures from the forum and am putting them here so people can se...

Thank you!!!
Now what to do with all my V1 arms :-/

V2 parts ready. New arms are much stronger around hinge pin areas and rear arm has a new bent shape. quadra_v1_vs_v2.jpg Thank you! Also eagerly awaiting the V2 on I.materialize. Here is how I am now running the Re-Re worlds quadra-symmetric car with the shorty pack forward. Yes it has a broken alu...

I can easily make slightly shorter front arm. How much shorter you want it? I installed B4 caster/steering blocks on my mid-quadra car. This is with the factory team 5mm clamping hex's. I set camber and toe near zero and measured the width by a crude method which was two boxes and a tape measure. I...

The arm wear has always been present as far back as I can recall, and it's just a drawback of the design. You already did what I would have suggested; I usually don't run rear clips on the front inner hinge pin and put a set screw in holding the pin in place from the other end. A bumper will help, b...

I did quite a bit of measuring yesterday. I will be swapping back to stock AE parts. The outside to outside hex is 1/4" too wide. That is with my thinnest set of hexes I own. Its no bueno :( Say (for example) you didn't care as much about having a quadra-symmetric suspension as having trailing...

Your b4 looks awesome with the rc10 body. Do those blue Al arm mounts have more toe-in? I couldn't find it online... but I assume the dhawk arm mounts are at the same angles as the Rere 6360 rear arm mounts?

If you can, get or make a flat nose with no kickup. An easy and cheap alternative that will get you part of the way there is the 15 degree caster blocks 6213. I'd start the shock oil at 40 minimum. Limit down-travel and add some shock limiters, start around 4-5. Depends on how big of bumps (if any) ...

I'll say it again... your T Buggy conversion is pretty darn cool as-is.
There are tons of variables there besides the differential. Same wheel rate, weight, and weight distribution? same camber, toe and anti-squat between the two? Suspension geometry also plays a big role.