RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi chaps, been awol for a while. Back now tho :) I’ve got some parts that I’d like some help identifying, and please feel free to post in this thread if you have any parts you need help with also. First up, a red XX motor plate, original version not alloy, anyone know where this came from (or is it ...

Thank you for your help guys! They let me back in and all the correct manual links now work. I'm not sure why AE needed to change or move the PDF files for some of the cars, but now everything is in order! I hope to do more in the near future, Late TQ10,Late Worlds, B3 and the B4's. On side note, I ...

SandBuggy wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 3:51 pm Hey, I know this is an old thread, but how much would a NIB original (not re re) Cadillac version be worth? Purchased this in Japan early 90's (dead stock) and never have built it.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=85&t=7465

I'd just like to thank the people that voted for me; this month, I got more votes than I have in the two or three previous times I have entered..... combined! At this rate, I'll win a month soon.... got August 2027 marked on the calendar already! Should just about have my Daytona finished by then :l...

cut the chassis out, attached the rear end and proline trans, the front isnt drilled and screwed on yet ... the chassis had to be modified from the original in several ways which made it complicated ... -first, the front end will utilize the modern bulkhead which has a built-in kickup vs the old cha...

Find yourself a broken one with a sweet case

PB Mini Mustang 2-Speed, Futaba 131SH servo, MC110 speed controller, Novak NER-2S 27MHZ receiver, Demon Power King motor & Sanyo 1700 SCE battery pack.

Hi all, the intention of this post is to serve as a reference point detailing how to duplicate some of the rear end setups I've used and get a lot of questions on. I'll preface this by stating that there are a lot of different CVA/CVD and wheel/hub/arm combinations. This post is specifically focusin...

Electronics are in and calibrated/programed. First time "Superbeast" has moved under it's own power. Just a short lil' shakedown test in the driveway but I think I'm gonna be pleased with the power it seems to have.

I aluminum brazed the 4 rear holes in the chassis and a couple near the front. I wasn't completely satisfied with the results. The brazing rod is harder than the aluminum, making it more difficult to finish. I am not also 100% confident in the brazing bond quality. Remaining holes, scratches and gou...

Here’s a cool RC10 I put together a while back.
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This is a full carbon SWB Optima Mid , chassis is from Fibre Lyte. The main features are platinium shocks, AE blue turnbuckles, Parma slipper, 48p Robinson spur gear, Lite Sink motor plate . I got some inspiration from '87 WC prototypes in Romsey for the wing mount , body (Optima Pro) and decals. ht...

The upshot of this build is to try and tame the whole dogbone insertion depth vs suspension travel problem. Also a lot of ability to adjust geometry. The first B1,B4,B6 worked out well, but just barely. The much longer B6 arms (75mm)/bones (69mm) pivot over a wider radius lessening the plunge. Still...

Hey Paul, I've found this image on the web. Is this what we're after?

Awesome car! I remember running the YR4 series in the late 90's in NorCal. In the US we were mostly had the YR4-M2 USA which had the top deck shock up front and the sliding battery trays, and later the M2 Pro with the 8 battery slots and wider top deck. The J-car was something everyone wanted but wa...