RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

No, the plastic is not as strong.

But yes, lots of us have decent luck with 3D printed parts.

I don't know about any of the design aspects, I just buy parts that others have designed, usually from Shapeways.

Once you can print in nylon and carbon fibre nylon then the strength is good enough , you do still have to design or modify designs for the printing process , I've literally printed an entire car less the metal parts , see my Yo-clone-oh project .

My understanding has always been that 3D printers were invented for rapid prototyping purposes. To be able to quickly and cheaply test a design to see if it works before putting forth the cost to have whatever it is made from the proper materials. It seems like in the future the technology will impr...

Rapid prototyping used to be all they were good for but the target for the technology is way beyond that , the motor manufacturer industry is investing in the tech for the parts market , instead of a warehouse full of slowly moving parts they aim to have 3d printers to make the part on site in a mat...

you dont see many at all anymore so its pretty rare

I have the predecessor, FlySky GT3B, and it's great for bashing around or general purpose use. It may not have the refined "feel" of the better-known brands, for example the wheel itself. It just feels cheap compared to a brand name like Futaba. My old Magnum Junior feels way nicer than th...

I would vote for the Futaba personally. When I started back racing about two years ago I went with the 3PV and it's honestly been great for me. It has all the basic features I would need to race and the interface isn't too hard to work with. Up to 10 models in memory and the quality and reliability ...

I got FS gt2e which binds with at least 4 fsa3 receivers. Cheap and works. There's an FS A2 tx but takes a lipo battery which seems to be more expensive than the tx it powers so sticking with the AA battery option.
I'm a Ford before Ferrari kinda guy

I'm a Ford before Ferrari kinda guy +1. If you're a racer or really picky about your transmitter "feel", by all means go for a big brand-name radio for 3x the price...not to mention the price of adding servos and receivers. The 3-channel FlySkys get the job done for anyone on a budget, re...

I still use older Futaba, Airtronics, and JR analog radios. Most of them still have the features that you actually use, including endpoints and model memory. In addition to that, they don't have binding or brand compatibility issues. All of my transmitters and receivers on that band will work togeth...

If a replacement body and decals are available, I'd definitely recommend going that direction.

I've seen some bodies that were stripped and repainted with decent results, but I've never had such luck. The older bodies that I've tried wound up hazy and cracked.

I've had very little success stripping paint from bodies...but I did have luck on a few occasions. If it was painted with Pactra, the paint actually bonds to the Lexan and is nigh impossible to strip without damaging the Lexan (i.e. hazing or milky appearance that's inside the Lexan itself, not some...

I'm soon going to be attempting stripping a couple old bodies myself. Unfortunately the bodies I'm working on cannot be replaced, so I bought a bunch of lexan sheets and am in the middle of building a vacuum table to recreate the body myself. Anyhow, homeboy at the local hobby shop told me the only ...

I got into 3D printing about 6 weeks ago and bought two of the Ender 3 v2 printers. So not an expert by any means but I have been doing a ton of printing since and have been learning a lot about what can be done so far. Have printed a few parts for my trucks as well It really depends on what materia...