RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

it's kind of been a double hump in the market and value/price. before the re-release of the classic and worlds car, things had peaked and were slowly declining and you could get hard to find parts once in a while for reasonable prices. so the hump/peak happened then. At that point, associated was st...

As for the nut, no, there is no nut below the bellcrank, just a small shim to keep it from rubbing. It's almost identical to how a world's steering setup is, I just used stainless screws and aluminum nuts so it was stronger than the aluminum screws and plastic nut. I can probably make some if you ne...

yes, exactly. the worlds setup uses the nuts and small white rings as shims under the bellcrank. if you need more clearance at the ball ends, you can sub in a small metal shim or two or three whatever, because the plastic ring is like 1mm tall, which is kind of a lot, but in that kit with bronze bus...

if you stack those parts like this, is there enough clearance?

Locknut

bellcrank

crush tube (wider part at top)

>>in here you might need small shim<<

Noseplate

Chassis

Screw

Yes, fully threaded.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=42314&hilit=Jwscab+woin+vonats&start=15

See a couple of pics on the lathe in this thread.

looks pretty cool all around. I would double check those inner upper rear arm ball ends to be sure they don't crash into the transmission, unless you have something special going on there. those inner mounts are preettty far inboard. if those upper links are longer than the lower links you are gonna...

So this update is on the scale of Scr8p, although this is not a build update per se, but some action shots taken last year (HAHHAH) at Critters racing up in North Jersey for the Vintage race we had sponsored. There are some great action shots showing some nice traction and suspension articulation, t...

So from the start I knew this guy was only going to be about 95% accurate due to the difficulty or price for some items. So this is all up, the chassis is finished with electronics. There are things that are just a bit off, but good enough for me. On to the paint, which should be fun. I beleive ther...

Titanium is one of those funny metals, like aluminum, where the pure stuff is harder to machine because it's gummy/smears. I buy 6AL-4V grade 5 from mcmaster carr in 1/8" diameter x 1 ft lengths. it cuts much like aluminum but don't let the tool bit rub, it will work harden. parting/grooving is...

I'd get new towers and not run the truck towers, Standard buggy in rear is fine, and an RPM version up front. That will reverse the shock positions, more upright up front and less upright out back. as it sits the progressive rates are 'off' Jeff (factory works) makes some sweet towers, you can get o...

Parts can be found but they are scarce. You may be better off finding a used example from eBay. Grab the manual from associated's website and give it a read. In no particular order these parts are what is different: Rear arms Rear bones Rear shock tower and short shocks Rear Sway bar Nose plate Shoc...

I think the mip bellcranks are probably ok. They are glass filled nylon. I'd probably do the simple green and healthy scrub first though.

There are a lot of ways you could do it. But in the end, what do you end up with? Essentially another car with an rc10 chassis maybe? Even though the mip 4wd drive conversion was never really great performance, and highly sought after, I think that was the really cool part about it. It was the minim...

Yes 870c. It has associated shocks on it. A jammin top brace and an rpm front bulkhead. Maybe gpm or something like that upper links steering I don't know but aftermarket