I'm building a Gold RC10 for a local track vintage race and I have a question for all the tuners out there. I bought some turnbuckles from MrBolink off ebay and I guess the sizes I bought are too short for the smaller ASC ball cups. RPM larger one would prob work but I bought tons of the smaller black ASC ones. Anyways if I reposition the Upper Ball Stud about 6mm closer to the tire I can make them work. There were holes already in the shock tower so I'm guessing this is an OK tuning idea. Does anyone know what this will do to handling? It appears that the tire might not increase camber during the downstroke as much but I wont really know untill I'm finished with the build up. Anyone try this or know what this will do?
Also there is a lower hole...would this one be better?
in the outside top hole, you'll get less camber on the down stroke, like you said. if you drop to the lower hole, you'll get an increase in camber, more than you'd get using the inside hole with a longer tie rod.
Well, not particularly... That tower was used on the six gear Graphite, CE, and 1st stealth Team cars, plus the last of the TQ10's. They're common enough on cars, but I can't seem to find a nice one separately... If you're racing it, get the later six hole per side version:
i never thought these were rare. my first one was on my 89 graphite and its still in mint shape. this beat up one was on a B chassis gold i got off ebay i think...but maybe there arent many out there?
Whiskers wrote:I double checked my "book" from back in the day. And this is the answer I got.
"The shorter the camber rod, the more the camber will change during suspension travel."
well..................i wouldn't fully agree with that. it would really depend on where the ball stud placement is. if you go by superfly's pic, there is two holes on the outside of the tower. using the lower hole, it should throw more negative camber during compression than it would if the ball stud was in the upper hole. and you'd still be using the same length tie rod. or damn near close to the same length.
you know looking back at this question when I start trying to visualize whats happening in terms of angles as the suspension moves through its range of motion...(and even if i draw it out on paper using smaller lengths of turnbuckes)...ummm unfortunatley the left side of my brain says to the right side: "Hey its dark in here?!"
I'm going to leave the turnbuckle on the outer and upper mount for now and try it on the track and see if its any good...
Think I saw somewhere on here a guide on where (or how to work out where) to drill the buggy bodyshell in the correct position so that you get a nice clean hole, that lines up with the front body post - taking into account the fact that the post is...
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I think I recall scr8p mentioning to cut the body hole some point further forward than where the mount touches the body in a thread somewhere, so you aren't just dreaming that.
Can anyone explain the impact of the rerelease Egress's lack of the lower BF8/9 lower shock mounts has on the newer version's handling vs the original? It seems to dramatically lower the front of the car as well as set the shock angle more like that...
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Great info. I always found my Super Shot to be pretty rugged but never got quite the same feel from my Vanquish back in the day. Out of curiousity, did the Thundershot series ever see track duty? They seem like a slightly more modern/streamlined...
I want to run my battery longitudinally in my gold pan but need to drill the holes for the battery holder is there a set position for this as mine doesnt have any holes to put it that way?
Thanks
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i think that if you are going to run this one than don't worry about drilling. BUT, a good double sided tape could be a good idea. A hard hit the wrong way could dislodge it though.
Back in my much younger days I picked up a gold chassis rc10 that the previous owner had converted to a truck. The truggy has the steering system in the non stock location allowing the steering linkage to be perpendicular to the steering arm.
This...
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Low-Profile servos as used in modern touring cars can also be a good idea.
Just looking at my Procat with it's spoofy anti-roll bar on the front suspension. It's mounted on the top chassis plate underneath the drive-belt, but the belt actually touches it. The instruction manual shows that arrangement too. Seems to me it's...
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Belt is extremely close but I don't know if it actually touches. I've never had an issue with my CATs or Procats but I believe some run bar under top deck which might be a solution.
I have 2 Acoms AM receivers (AR-227FE) that I got in a lot of parts. I think they are brand new but when I tried to test them I could not make them work. I only have futaba servos so I think it could be a problem with the wire position on the...
I have this one Yokomo upper deck, but from what car is that from? I looks like similar than in 93WTC car, but was this upper deck available in any other Yokomo cars?
Well, I let me wife drive my XXT and she quickly found a mailbox. Mostly unscathed except her pride, in her defense it was pushing when on-power. Guess I need to lower the front some.
Anyone have a lead on an upper brace (part of A4110)?
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While I am looking for that XXT CR Body I know I have somewhere, I'll keep an eye out for the upper brace.
Does it have to be new? I am sure I have some gently abused ones in a box somewhere.
New, used, plastic, graphite. Even slightly damaged!...