
=tuber 10=
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- scr8p
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i mocked it up one last time before i ship it off for powdercoat. i thought about using aluminum arms on it, but i'm afraid that would make it too rigid and open up the chance to damage the bulk head mounts in the chassis in a crash instead of just bending/breaking a plastic arm. i'd love to use a set of white rpm arms, but i dont have any. 
the body on it isnt the one i'll use but i used it to pretty much figure out how i'm gonna slice everything on the final body, its gonna take 2-3 complete bodies to complete...
hey, can anybody tell me what i need part# wise to rebuild the kyosho shocks? is there any special tools or whatever i need to remove the existing seals like ae uses?




the body on it isnt the one i'll use but i used it to pretty much figure out how i'm gonna slice everything on the final body, its gonna take 2-3 complete bodies to complete...
hey, can anybody tell me what i need part# wise to rebuild the kyosho shocks? is there any special tools or whatever i need to remove the existing seals like ae uses?



- scr8p
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- Asso_man!
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sweet project Hoop, just remove the e-clip at the bottom of the Kysoho gold shocks and you're done! I don't think you can use the same parts in AE and Kyo shocks, but they are close...
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Come and visit the stable
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Come and visit the stable
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powdercoat is done. gettin' shipped back to me next week.
now i just gotta order some more $tuff.
i've pretty much decided to get a lipo powered mamba max 5700kv system with a spektrum radio. the only thing is i'd have to get a pc emulator for my mac to program the mamba.
i'd like a 2s or even maybe a 3s lipo, but i'm still trying to figure out how the burst rating and continuos ratings play into the brushless system. i've looked at castecreations site to try and find discharge ratings of thier motors, but dang if i can figure out what to decode...
now i just gotta order some more $tuff.
i've pretty much decided to get a lipo powered mamba max 5700kv system with a spektrum radio. the only thing is i'd have to get a pc emulator for my mac to program the mamba.
i'd like a 2s or even maybe a 3s lipo, but i'm still trying to figure out how the burst rating and continuos ratings play into the brushless system. i've looked at castecreations site to try and find discharge ratings of thier motors, but dang if i can figure out what to decode...
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- teshreve
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C = capacity
S = cell count in series
P = cell count in parallel
Each cell is 3.7 volts
Given all the below packs include 1000 mah cells:
A 2S packs has 7.4 volts, 1000 mah
A 2P pack has 3.7 volts, 2000 mah
A 2S2P pack has 7.4 volts, 2000 mah
If the above 1000 mah cells are rated at 10C, they could safely be discharged at 10 amps (10 X capacity)
If they are 20C cells, you could safely discharge them at 20 amps.
If the cells were 3000 mah, 10C would equal 30 amp and 20C would equal 60 amp safe discharge current.
Finally, a 2P pack with 3000 mah cells, rated at 20C, could be safely discharged at 120 amps (because the cells are in parallel, each cell "sees" half the current).
Charge rates are almost always 1C.
S = cell count in series
P = cell count in parallel
Each cell is 3.7 volts
Given all the below packs include 1000 mah cells:
A 2S packs has 7.4 volts, 1000 mah
A 2P pack has 3.7 volts, 2000 mah
A 2S2P pack has 7.4 volts, 2000 mah
If the above 1000 mah cells are rated at 10C, they could safely be discharged at 10 amps (10 X capacity)
If they are 20C cells, you could safely discharge them at 20 amps.
If the cells were 3000 mah, 10C would equal 30 amp and 20C would equal 60 amp safe discharge current.
Finally, a 2P pack with 3000 mah cells, rated at 20C, could be safely discharged at 120 amps (because the cells are in parallel, each cell "sees" half the current).
Charge rates are almost always 1C.
Bought my first RC10 in 1989
- teshreve
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My understanding is that if your average lipo pack could not easily work with your average motor, the specs, limits, and warnings would be everywhere.
The reality is that unless you are doing something really special, or wanting to get really wiggy, or really don't understand the technology, you are not going to make a big purchasing error.
For example, if you buy an 1800 mah 3S pack rated at 10C for a Novak 3.5 turn motor in a monster truck, you will have issues.
But I don't think anyone who understands the technology would do such a thing....... but, hey... maybe I am wrong
FWIW, I have made several runs with an 1800 mah 2S lipo pack rated at 20C on a 1/10 scale car with a 13 turn brushed motor and it seemed to do quite well.
I was very cautious at first as it seemed that I would really be pushing it, but so far, so good!
The reality is that unless you are doing something really special, or wanting to get really wiggy, or really don't understand the technology, you are not going to make a big purchasing error.
For example, if you buy an 1800 mah 3S pack rated at 10C for a Novak 3.5 turn motor in a monster truck, you will have issues.
But I don't think anyone who understands the technology would do such a thing....... but, hey... maybe I am wrong

FWIW, I have made several runs with an 1800 mah 2S lipo pack rated at 20C on a 1/10 scale car with a 13 turn brushed motor and it seemed to do quite well.
I was very cautious at first as it seemed that I would really be pushing it, but so far, so good!
Bought my first RC10 in 1989
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i'm checkin' that place out, the biggest pita about it seems to get a decent enough capacity and retain the 6cell stick pack dimensions.Ron Jeremy wrote:I have bought from these guys twice. It was good both times.
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=735144&pgid=liposelect
they got a 5000mah 2s pack on sale right now for 80 bucks, but its 6" long and i dunno if that tuber has enough wiggle room.
rj, can i take 2 lessor capacity 2s 7.2v packs and hook those together to gain capacity? like 2 1600mah 2s lipo's connected in series to make 3200mah 7.2v?
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