Unstamped goldpan?
Unstamped goldpan?
Hey guys, I recently pulled my RC10 box down from the shelves for the first time in 20 years or so. It is the 6016 set with full bearings. I wasn't aware of the existence of stamps before now, but I don't see a stamp on the bottom in the place where it should be. I bought it from Hobby Shack in Costa Mesa, CA, in around 1986. The pan has some moderate scratches on the bottom where I bottomed-out on pavement. I have the KO Propo EX-5 radio and mini servos.
I stripped out the radio and other stuff today and started cleaning it. Just curious if there are any known tires that fit those original wheels?
I wouldn't mind getting it running, but I don't want to change it much except for ditching the analog speed control. Any good recommendations for a good, cheap, basic ESC and a good, cheap match motor? I'd like to spend less than $100 total if possible.
Thanks!
I stripped out the radio and other stuff today and started cleaning it. Just curious if there are any known tires that fit those original wheels?
I wouldn't mind getting it running, but I don't want to change it much except for ditching the analog speed control. Any good recommendations for a good, cheap, basic ESC and a good, cheap match motor? I'd like to spend less than $100 total if possible.
Thanks!
- Charlie don't surf
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Re: Unstamped goldpan?
There are non stamp variations, however they were really short lived and released in 84'- but yours might still be one- pics are the easiest way of identification
You might just not be looking "under' the motor and behind the transmission, looking from the top-

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Re: Unstamped goldpan?
I thought mine was a no stamp. Then I cleaned off the oil and dirt and there it was. "A"
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Re: Unstamped goldpan?
oh, I am looking in the wrong spot then. I thought the stamp was on the bottom, not under the motor. I will pull and look shortly.
any ideas on tires, motor, ESC?
any ideas on tires, motor, ESC?
Re: Unstamped goldpan?
It is stamped "A"
I am cleaning it all up for shelving. Decided not to run it (yet).
Completely different question: last time I ran an RC car, it was NiCd and charging took 15 minutes, and a run could last 7-8 minutes...
If I were to buy an RC10 B4.1 RTR brushless, is it absurd to go NiMh??
I don't know how long NiMh takes to charge vs LiPo, or how long they last for runs. It sure seems like LiPo are expensive though.
Any good ideas for decent LiPo packs and charger?

I am cleaning it all up for shelving. Decided not to run it (yet).
Completely different question: last time I ran an RC car, it was NiCd and charging took 15 minutes, and a run could last 7-8 minutes...
If I were to buy an RC10 B4.1 RTR brushless, is it absurd to go NiMh??
I don't know how long NiMh takes to charge vs LiPo, or how long they last for runs. It sure seems like LiPo are expensive though.
Any good ideas for decent LiPo packs and charger?
- CamplinP
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Re: Unstamped goldpan?
I just made the switch to lipo. I thought about it last year but decided to use up my nimh and go for new this spring. Let me tell you, I know my nimh were old but they were even piles of s*** when new compared to the lipos. Runtime and power is amazing from a 4000mah 30c. With a 3300kv motor in my son's T4 it lasts so long you almost get tired of driving. As for cost I did spend a little more on the charger because I felt that is the foundation. I bought two of the Dynamite Passport Ultras. For batteries though I tried the hardcase Gens Ace. I think they were 19.99 on sale. They balance well and have no complaints on the performance. My son is only using a 3300kv motor so the "c" rating doesn't need to be that high. It really moves though.
The Fox, Falcon, 9 RC10s black/gold/graph, Optima Mid SE EXT, Losi XXXT, B3, B4, 3 T4s, Evader BX, Evader ST, Buggy Champ '09, Sand Scorcher '10, RC10T, RC10DS
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