I think that's an intesting project... that will end up in something that is anything but "the very best Vintage RC10 buggy possible", simply because you've had the best of the best refining that platform for 10yrs to make it what it became in the end... And a few of the recipes you're mentionning (cantilevers, trailing arms, double-deckers) have proven suboptimal in the past 30 yrs of offroad racing and simply been dropped by mfr's since. There's a reason why all 2wd cars (at least the rear motor ones) have a similar architecture in 2012
Will follow closely though as it's always cool to see a bespoke car
Paul
The ideal vintage RC10 track racer
- Lonestar
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Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
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Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer
Why, what do you notice with the 30deg versus the 25deg?fredswain wrote:The RC10 was 30 degrees. Cars have varied over the years. The JRX2 was originally 20 degrees and then later 30. The RC10B4 is 25 degrees. It is my personal opinion that 30 is too much but that's just me.
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Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer
I've noticed my cars take concrete curbs much better @ 30 deg.
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Re: The ideal vintage RC10 track racer
I'm just experimenting. I have little experience with tuning buggies, and even less racing, but I think this is a great opertunity to really look into what makes a good chassis, and what makes a mediocre chassis. I realize it might not be best on the track, but I'd like to try things like trailing arms and cantilevers to find out exactly why they are no good on the track.Lonestar wrote:I think that's an intesting project... that will end up in something that is anything but "the very best Vintage RC10 buggy possible", simply because you've had the best of the best refining that platform for 10yrs to make it what it became in the end... And a few of the recipes you're mentionning (cantilevers, trailing arms, double-deckers) have proven suboptimal in the past 30 yrs of offroad racing and simply been dropped by mfr's since. There's a reason why all 2wd cars (at least the rear motor ones) have a similar architecture in 2012
Will follow closely though as it's always cool to see a bespoke car
Paul
So we'll see. Like I said, I mainly want to experiment.
So far I have an a stamp chassis, lots of duratrax Evader suspension and transmission parts, and lots of hacked half ass engineering skills. I'm gonna work on building a jig to turn this chassis into a mold to lay fiberglass, and eventually carbon fiber. I'm thinking I'll split the difference and go with 25 degrees for the front kick up.
My current vintage racing lineup:
Associated RC10 B2, RC10 Team Car, Losi XXT, XX4, XFactory X5, Schumacher CAT 2000
www.moto-obscura.com
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