help with vintage rc10 racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i torn down my rc10 and found some stuff wrong, 1 bearing was gone in the diff, like missing in action, so i serviced the diff, and i am looking for a b4.1 diff and slipper for the stealth. and i need alot of b4 wheel bearings for the rc10.
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
the diff wont fit, but the top shaft and slipper assembly drops right into the stealth 

--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
jk racing i got to buy a complete b4.1 diff and slipper, but my arms and towers came in today bro, so i will roll out to the trailer and start the build tonight.
do u got ant idea on drilling out the b4 front and rear hubs straight????
do u got ant idea on drilling out the b4 front and rear hubs straight????
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
vise and a drill press, I tried freehanding mine and it was, well, ummmm....I bought another set 

--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
not good!!!!!!JK Racing wrote:vise and a drill press, I tried freehanding mine and it was, well, ummmm....I bought another set

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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
as i was working on my buggy, i noticed how easy it would be to raise the stealth up off the chassis. like a 1/16th of a inch. that would help on the dog bone plunge. i had a losi 22 buggy and losi drivers was doing this to keep the dog bones from slidding to far in on the out drive. this might help on the rc10 buggy too?? i am not at the stage to test this yet. but maybe one of you could try this. i think u would need 6 1/16 washers , 4 under the stealth and 2 under the tranny brace, on the bulkhead side. but this might be a bad idea, i dont know yet?
i got pics of my buggy and what i have done so far. i will post them later today, because i took them with my cell and they suck. will have better pics later today.
what hinge pin do i need for the rear RPM arms, rc10t pins????
and the rear shock angle looks better on the back side of the tower, but looks like i would have to take off a 1/16 of the shock mounts on the arm for that to work. right now i have b4. rear hubs on it. i guess i need the RPM rc10t rear hubs.
tell where do u guys get the kline arms??? i kinda dont like the rpm arms.
i got pics of my buggy and what i have done so far. i will post them later today, because i took them with my cell and they suck. will have better pics later today.
what hinge pin do i need for the rear RPM arms, rc10t pins????
and the rear shock angle looks better on the back side of the tower, but looks like i would have to take off a 1/16 of the shock mounts on the arm for that to work. right now i have b4. rear hubs on it. i guess i need the RPM rc10t rear hubs.
tell where do u guys get the kline arms??? i kinda dont like the rpm arms.
- klavy69
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
should be able to find what you are after here for klein arms but haven't read all the way thru to see which arms you are after...kyoshoracer77 wrote:tell where do u guys get the kline arms??? i kinda dont like the rpm arms.
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
- Rayzerp
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
One thing to note (because it caught me out!) is that the Dynotech arms come as single pieces unlike when you order replacement arms for most buggys and you get a pair. To be fair it does say this on the site but its an easy mistake to make.
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
thank u sir i didnt think about that. 18.00 bucks a pair. but i got too have them, i dont like the rpm arms.Rayzerp wrote:One thing to note (because it caught me out!) is that the Dynotech arms come as single pieces unlike when you order replacement arms for most buggys and you get a pair. To be fair it does say this on the site but its an easy mistake to make.
- Rayzerp
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
Quality is fantastic though so they are worth the price....for me in Ireland the shipping was the most expensive part 

- soniccj5
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
They are also very very strong! I ran them on my buggy for a couple years and had a number of bad crash without any damage.Rayzerp wrote:Quality is fantastic though so they are worth the price....for me in Ireland the shipping was the most expensive part
During your build don't hesitate to post questions here. If it has been done before someone here has done it, and if not someone here can help get it done.

Good luck.
ED
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
ok here r some pics i took off my cell phone. they suck, but the wifey had the camera.



i bet u guys know what color the buggy will be.



i bet u guys know what color the buggy will be.
- mdutcher
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
Very nice! Can't wait to see the finished project.
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
I all most have it together, but I need another shock tower, the one I got is too short. Because the b4.1 rear shocks bottom om out before the chassis hits the table top.mdutcher wrote:Very nice! Can't wait to see the finished project.
- scr8p
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
if you got a shorter rear tower the shocks would bottom out quicker than they do now.
are you sure it's the shocks and not the outdrives bottoming out in the outdrives?
are you sure it's the shocks and not the outdrives bottoming out in the outdrives?
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