I took my ultra molded 10T down to omaha last weekend for its first run in 10 years. 17.5 brushless no boost and shorty pack. It handled pretty good but it would not keep the front end down off of jumps. Where the buggy and short course I could just roll out of the throttle after it left the jump I couldnt do that with the T. Doing the same with it would put the nose up at a 30-40 degree angle. With the shorty pack all the way to the front it was only 62% rearweight. I bolted 1 1/4 ounces of lead to the front tower and got it somewhat better but still not perfect. Suggestions?
Thanks
Nick
17.5's tend to use very high gearing, reducing the dynamic drag from the gears to reduce wheel momentum that levels the truck out in the air. Add more drag brake or changing brake profiles, tap the brakes in the air or consider looking at your suspension setup in the front (maybe oversprung)
I might have to play with esc settings. Current suspension is 30 front #2 green, rear 30 #1 started with green, changed to gray. One of the guys suggested add front weight or stiffen up the rear.
I was searching through the forum to see if it was possible to retrofit a B2/B3 front end on an original RC10 but came up short. I found the buggy build that has the original front end on a T2 chassis but I haven't found the reverse. Someone must...
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it can be done if you use all B2/B3 parts except for the nose plate, and make your own noseplate to match up with the gold pan mounting pattern. you will have to get creative with the upper brace mounting to the chassis.
Won this on the bay with a decent looking A stamp chassis with some andy's rear arms.Got it all for 30 bucks.The front end looks cool.I haven't seen anything close to looking like except maybe a ds.Can anybody help with an i.d.I'm counting on Scr8p...
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personally, i would just get a standard buggy tower and call yourself done, instead of looking for that mcallister lower shock mount. mainly because your missing the mcallister center shock mount, too. but i'll look through my stuff to see if i have...
I've noticed that my T4.3 gets a lot of chatter/wheel hop around corners from the front wheels. It's really difficult to drive fast because of it, and makes the thing super inconsistent. I need some help sorting it out.
It's basically a box stock...
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I noticed this with my T5M as well, but there is just alot of slop on the steering unfortunately. It is especially noticeable on the pavement versus the dirt.
Which front end would make a better handling dirt/carpet oval build, the DS or stock RC10, my thought was that the DS front end with less kick up would be a little twicherier and faster steering response, but would this be good or bad for oval...
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Which front end would make a better handling dirt/carpet oval build, the DS or stock RC10, my thought was that the DS front end with less kick up would be a little twicherier and faster steering response, but would this be good or bad for oval...
If I put a 10T front plate on and then just attach the standard widetrack arms (will be using Bart's Parts arms), am I going to have any trouble on geometry or steering clearance? Also will the standard turnbuckle lengths (CE/Team Car) still work?...
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10T kick-up + Klien/Worlds arms + truck front bulkhead. Overall width ends up the same as a stock CE/Team front.
You would need a Worlds front tower, though in a pinch you could use a 10T front tower. Worlds tower is wider at the top than a 10T...
Hey guys & gal, I'm not sure if anyone else has already discovered this and posted it already. If so I appologize but it appears RPM has re-issued the Shorty front bumper for the RC10 (in black only though). I recently stumbled upon them and just...
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I ordered one on the bay, and it came in a bag with a card and a packed by card...
i picked up a nip trinity #ev0017 ss front end kit. fits ev10ss,associated 10lss and bolink. it will bolt right on a 10lss but what bolink does it fit? does the bolink chassis need to be drilled?
I was doing a regular maintnence on my lunchbox when my front left steerings arms ball stud came undone. I ave not been able too find the bottom nut too replace it. What would be the best solution too fixing it?
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thanks alot turbo scorpion, i have whole bunch of jb weld and other fun little mecahnics things like that, i would of never thought of using it, but i still havent found the little nut that i need. but i will definitly try too fix that crack
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