The only blemish I was able to find was, not surprisingly, some oxidation on the magnesium motor mount. Hopefully one day I can find an alloy motor mount...
I got a NIP mount, its unopened but its still very dull from age, id just get your one bead blasted, they look amazing after that, then seal it up with a dullcote to keep it pristine!
I was looking in Fibre-Lyte's website for that brace. Their labeling of the different YZ10's is a bit confusing. I suspect the part number is wither YZ10 09 or W93WCS04, as they look substantially similar. I assume here that what they call the YZ10 is the '94 model and what they call the 93WCS is not the 93 Works but instead what was used at the '93 Worlds, which is basically a '94 YZ10...?
Seriously, though, considering what comes (or doesn't come) with it, I got a heck of a lot more for my money with this box art YZ10. I understand it's mint, but almost $600 for a roller with no body, undertray, instructions, decals, box, or upgrades (I don't see a TCS on it, at the very least) is a bit much.
Let's stop posting eBay stuff in the Yokomo forum, unless you just bought it. And 1) that's the rarest of the rare. I paid $450 for a NIP chassis only for the WCS, but you'll never get the one in that link. That's one of our infamous members revolving eBay accounts, he's a thief and a con artist, and loves vintage RC. Do a little reading in the complaints dept, and PM me with any questions.
The seller of that 94' (S. Dros) is not the same person and has great stuff
I also picked up and mounted a steering brace assembly. Since this car is the prettiest among the '94s that I have, it gets all of the goodies. New pics coming soon.
Some pics with the motor mount installed. I also included a picture here of the new steering rack (original Yokomo parts for the rack, not repro parts).
The steering rack went together rather easily, although the bearings needed a bit of force to get them into the rack (I just used a set of pliers). Bit of a tight fit there, but I'd rather do it that way than bore the mounting holes out and risk the fit being too loose. I had to get shorter steering turnbuckles, though, since the original ones were too long for the new inner ballstud positions (~ 1cm further out).
The motor mount is pretty self-explanatory to assemble, although mounting the layshaft was a challenge. Normally, with the motor mount screwed to the chassis, I run the layshaft through the rear pulley and then the front pulley and then (with the belts properly mounted on the center pulleys) kind of twist the layshaft into place onto the motor mount so that the bearings slot into place. Takes a little bit of force, since the belts don't like to flex too much, but it works no problem with the magnesium mounts. With the Suzuki mount, this was never going to happen, for some reason (maybe there's a small offset? Or maybe the belts, being so "fresh" on this shelfer, aren't worn in?). I had to actually mount the layshaft (with the belts in place) with the motor mount not screwed to the chassis, and then after everything was in place, twist the motor mount to line up the screw holes and screw the motor mount to the chassis. In any case, it looks quite nice, and I used the opportunity to swap out the Reedy DS that was previously in there with a Reedy Sonic2 12TD.
This car was sold as Associated 1/12th car but it is not. Actually I thought it is a MRP but it seems also not.
Someone has seen this before?
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I got confirmation now from a friend who had exactly this car in the past. Indeed it is a British car, it´s a Gemini SL Version 2 from 1980. Some guys maybe will know the Gemini SLX from the Lexancar area what was the successor of this SL version....
Ive bought and sold quite a bit of stuff in my life, not just rc cars; Pocket bikes, gopeds, mountain bikes, cars.. man the list goes on. But yeah a few of them i wish i had kept. Maybe even some of the rc10s ive sold you guys. I wonder where my...
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Same here. Really the only things of the R/C variety I regret selling are the items that are worth 10 times as much now so I can sell them again. :lol:
Not knowing much about them and now owning three of them and enough parts to build a couple more I am getting more curious.
The XX replaced the JRx2 correct? What years was it sold, was it a successful racer at national and world level etc? Who...
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I will probably have one or almost a complete one for sale soon. I have a nice runner going now with full CR suspension and I have two other runners actually, I think one of those will get rebuilt with all new graphite chasssis and graphite CR...
How do some sellers do it! I see items for $.99 shipped...a stamp is $.55 and your getting fees for the whole $.99, figure 10% each paypal and ebay on average. To me it seems like you are selling the item for about $.25 if that....
ive been thinking about doing a mid engine rc10t3 but a rc10gt fell into my lap so im going to build it and see how diffrent it will handle to the rear motor rc10t3
the bad part ...2 bent front shock shafts , and it needs a set of...
As you are all probably aware, new Stealth outdrives are no longer available for RC10's. It is not clear if and when AE will be offering them again. I've been working on printed steel outdrives , but a better option is...
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Sorry, I'm out and don't have any definite plans to make more.
So after getting my old Yokomo out of storage and giving it a light dustoff, I though hmmm these cars are fairly rare so maybe I should try and find some parts or a whole 2nd spare car for replacement bits...great idea...as I still really had not...
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@rccars4sal, yes, you should be able to directly bolt on your magnesium bulkheads onto a works chassis. The only difference between the 870 and the Works bulkheads is the material - magnesium vs. aluminum, as you state. The aluminum does not oxidize...